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_ DURING the remainder of the day we loitered about, talking over our
plans.
The doctor was all eagerness to visit Tamai, a solitary inland
village, standing upon the banks of a considerable lake of the same
name, and embosomed among groves. From Afrehitoo you went to this
place by a lonely pathway leading through the wildest scenery in the
world. Much, too, we had heard concerning the lake itself, which
abounded in such delicious fish that, in former times, angling parties
occasionally came over to it from Papeetee.
Upon its banks, moreover, grew the finest fruit of the islands, and in
their greatest perfection. The "Ve," or Brazilian plum, here attained
the size of an orange; and the gorgeous "Arheea," or red apple of
Tahiti, blushed with deeper dyes than in any of the seaward valleys,
Beside all this, in Tamai dwelt the most beautiful and unsophisticated
women in the entire Society group. In short, the village was so
remote from the coast, and had been so much less affected by recent
changes than other places that, in most things, Tahitian life was
here seen as formerly existing in the days of young Otoo, the
boy-king, in Cook's time.
After obtaining from the planters all the information which was
needed, we decided upon penetrating to the village; and after a
temporary sojourn there, to strike the beach again, and journey round
to Taloo, a harbour on the opposite side of the island.
We at once put ourselves in travelling trim. Just previous to leaving
Tahiti, having found my wardrobe reduced to two suits (frock and
trousers, both much the worse for wear), I had quilted them together
for mutual preservation (after a fashion peculiar to sailors);
engrafting a red frock upon a blue one, and producing thereby a
choice variety in the way of clothing. This was the extent of my
wardrobe. Nor was the doctor by any means better off. His
improvidence had at last driven him to don the nautical garb; but by
this time his frock--a light cotton one--had almost given out, and he
had nothing to replace it. Shorty very generously offered him one
which was a little less ragged; but the alms were proudly refused;
Long Ghost preferring to assume the ancient costume of Tahiti--the
"Roora."
This garment, once worn as a festival dress, is now seldom met with;
but Captain Bob had often shown us one which he kept as an heirloom.
It was a cloak, or mantle, of yellow tappa, precisely similar to the
"poncho" worn by the South-American Spaniards. The head being slipped
through a slit in the middle, the robe hangs about the person in
ample drapery. Tonoi obtained sufficient coarse brown tappa to make a
short mantle of this description; and in five minutes the doctor was
equipped. Zeke, eyeing his toga critically, reminded its proprietor
that there were many streams to ford, and precipices to scale,
between Martair and Tamai; and if he travelled in petticoats, he had
better hold them up.
Besides other deficiencies, we were utterly shoeless. In the free and
easy Pacific, sailors seldom wear shoes; mine had been tossed
overboard the day we met the Trades; and except in one or two tramps
ashore, I had never worn any since. In Martair, they would have been
desirable: but none were to be had. For the expedition we meditated,
however, they were indispensable. Zeke, being the owner of a pair of
huge, dilapidated boots, hanging from a rafter like saddlebags, the
doctor succeeded in exchanging for them a case-knife, the last
valuable article in his possession. For myself, I made sandals from a
bullock's hide, such as are worn by the Indians in California. They
are made in a minute; the sole, rudely fashioned to the foot, being
confined across the instep by three straps of leather.
Our headgear deserves a passing word. My comrade's was a brave old
Panama hat, made of grass, almost as fine as threads of silk; and so
elastic that, upon rolling it up, it sprang into perfect shape again.
Set off by the jaunty slouch of this Spanish sombrero, Doctor Long
Ghost, in this and his Eoora, looked like a mendicant grandee.
Nor was my own appearance in an Eastern turban less distinguished. The
way I came to wear it was this. My hat having been knocked overboard
a few days before reaching Papeetee, I was obliged to mount an
abominable wad of parti-coloured worsted--what sailors call a Scotch
cap. Everyone knows the elasticity of knit wool; and this Caledonian
head-dress crowned my temples so effectually that the confined
atmosphere engendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain I tried to
ventilate the cap: every gash made seemed to heal whole in no time.
Then such a continual chafing as it kept up in a hot sun.
Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend, prevailed
upon me to bestow it upon him. I did so; hinting that a good boiling
might restore the original brilliancy of the colours.
It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new Regatta frock of
the doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and winding it round my head
in folds, I allowed the sleeves to droop behind--thus forming a good
defence against the sun, though in a shower it was best off. The
pendent sleeves adding much to the effect, the doctor called me the
Bashaw with Two Tails.
Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai; in whose green saloons we
counted upon creating no small sensation. _
Read next: PART II: CHAPTER LXII. TAMAI
Read previous: PART II: CHAPTER LX. WHAT THEY THOUGHT OF US IN MARTAIR
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