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_ Every preparation for the voyage being completed, Captain Cook
received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Discovery
under his command. Having, accordingly, given the proper directions to
Captain Clerke, he sailed from the Nore to the Downs, on the 25th of
June. On the 30th of the same month, he anchored in Plymouth Sound,
where the Discovery was already arrived. It was the 8th day of July
before our commander received his instructions for the voyage; and at
the same time, he was ordered to proceed with the Resolution, to the
Cape of Good Hope. Captain Clerke, who was detained in London, by some
unavoidable circumstances, was to follow as soon as he should join his
ship.
In the evening of the 12th, Captain Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound,
and pursued his course down the Channel. It was very early that he
began his judicious operations for preserving the health of his crew:
for, on the 17th, the ship was smoked between the decks with
gunpowder, and the spare sails were well aired. On the 30th, the moon
being totally eclipsed, the captain observed it with a night
telescope. He had not, on this occasion, an opportunity of making many
observations. The reason was, that the moon was hidden behind the
clouds the greater part of the time; and this was particularly the
case, when the beginning and the end of total darkness, and the end of
the eclipse, happened.
It being found, that there was not hay and corn sufficient for the
subsistence of the stock of animals on board, till the arrival of our
people at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Cook determined to touch at
Teneriffe. This island he thought better adapted to the purposes of
procuring these articles, and other refreshments, than Madeira. On the
1st of August, he anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, and immediately
dispatched an officer to the governor, who, with the utmost
politeness, granted everything which our commander requested.
Were a judgment to be formed from the appearance of the country in the
neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is
so barren a spot, as to be insufficient for the maintenance even of
its own inhabitants. It was proved, however, by the ample supplies
which our navigators received, that the islanders had enough to spare
for visitors. The necessary articles of refreshment were procured at
such moderate prices, as to confirm Captain Cook in his opinion, that
Teneriffe is a more eligible place than Madeira, for ships to touch
at, which are bound on long voyages. Indeed, the wine of the latter
island is far superior to that of the former; but then it can only be
purchased by a sum of money proportionably larger.
During the short stay which the captain made at Teneriffe, he
continued with great assiduity his astronomical observations; and Mr.
Anderson has not a little contributed to the farther knowledge of the
country, by his remarks on its general state, its natural appearances,
its productions, and its inhabitants. He learned, from a sensible and
well informed gentleman, who resided in the island, that a shrub is
common there, which agrees exactly with the description given by
Tournefort and Linnaeus, of the _tea shrub_, as growing in China
and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and every year is rooted out in
large quantities from the vineyards. The Spaniards, however, sometimes
use it as tea, and ascribe to it all the qualities of that which is
imported from China. They give it also the name of tea, and say that
it was found in the country when the islands were first discovered.
Another botanical curiosity is called the _impregnated lemon_;
which is a perfect and distinct lemon enclosed within another, and
differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular.
The air and climate of Teneriffe are, in general, remarkably
healthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in pulmonary
complaints. This the gentleman before mentioned endeavoured to account
for, from its being always in a person's power to procure a different
temperature of the air, by residing at different heights in the
island. He expressed, therefore, his surprise that the physicians of
England should never have thought of sending their consumptive
patients to Teneriffe, instead of Nice or Lisbon.
Although it is not understood that there is any great similarity
between the manners of the English and those of the Spaniards, it was
observable, that the difference between them was very little perceived
by Omai. He only said, that the Spaniards did not appear to be so
friendly as the English; and that, in their persons, they approached
to some resemblance of his own countrymen.
On the 4th, Captain Cook sailed from Teneriffe, and proceeded on his
voyage. Such was his attention, both to the discipline and the health
of his company, that twice in the space of five days, he exercised
them at great guns and small arms, and cleared and smoked the ship
below decks. On the evening of the 10th, when the Resolution was at a
small distance from the island of Bonavista, she ran so close upon a
number of sunken rocks, that she did but just weather the breakers.
The situation of our voyagers, for a few minutes, was very alarming.
In this situation the captain, with the intrepid coolness which
distinguished his character, did not choose to sound, as that, without
any possibility of lessening, might have heightened the danger.
While our commander was near the Cape de Verde Islands, he had an
opportunity of correcting an assertion of Mr. Nicholson with regard to
the manner of sailing by those islands, which, if implicitly trusted
to, might prove of dangerous consequence. On the 13th, our navigators
arrived before Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago; but as the
Discovery was not there, and little water had been expended in the
passage from Teneriffe, Captain Cook did not think proper to go in;
but stood to the southward.
In the course of the voyage, between the latitudes of 12 and 7
north, the weather was generally dark and gloomy. The rains were
frequent, and accompanied with that close and sultry weather, which
too often brings on sickness in this passage. At such a time, the
worst consequences are to be apprehended: and commanders of ships
cannot be too much upon their guard. It is necessary for them to
purify the air between decks with fire and smoke, and to oblige their
people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. The constant
observance of these precautions on board the Resolution was attended
with such success, that the captain had now fewer sick men than on
either of his former voyages. This was the more remarkable, as, in
consequence of the seams of the vessel having opened so wide, as to
admit the rain when it fell, there was scarcely a man who could lie
dry in his bed; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out
of their cabins by the water that came through the sides. When settled
weather returned, the caulkers were employed in repairing these
defects, by caulking the decks and inside weather-works of the ship;
for the humanity of our commander would not trust the workmen over the
sides, while the Resolution was at sea.
On the 1st of September, our navigators crossed the equator. While, on
the 8th, Captain Cook was near the eastern coast of Brazil, he was at
considerable pains to settle its longitude, which, till some better
astronomical observations are made on shore in that country, he
concluded to be thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-six degrees
west, at most.
As our people proceeded on their voyage, they frequently saw, in the
night, those luminous marine animals, which have formerly been
mentioned and described. Some of them appeared to be considerably
larger than any which the captain had met with before; and sometimes
they were so numerous, that hundreds of them were visible at the same
moment.
On the 18th of October, the Resolution came to an anchor in Table Bay,
at the Cape of Good Hope; and the usual compliments having been paid
to Baron Plettenberg the governor, Captain Cook immediately applied
himself to his customary operations. Nothing remarkable occurred till
the evening of the 31st, when a tempest arose from the south-east,
which lasted three days, and which was so violent that the Resolution
was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging
her anchors. The effects of the storm were sensibly felt by our people
on shore; for their tents and observatory were torn to pieces, and
their astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On
the 3rd of November, the tempest ceased, and the next day the English
were enabled to resume their different employments.
It was not till the 10th of the month, that Captain Cook had the
satisfaction of seeing the Discovery arrive in the bay, and effect her
junction with the Resolution. She had sailed from England on the 1st
of August, and would have reached the Cape of Good Hope a week sooner,
if she had not been driven from the coast by the late storm. Every
assistance was immediately given to put her into a proper condition
for proceeding on the voyage.
While the necessary preparations for the future navigation was
completing, a disaster happened with regard to the cattle which had
been carried out in the Resolution. They had been conveyed on shore
for the purpose of grazing. The bull, and two cows, with their calves,
had been sent to graze along with some other cattle: but Captain Cook
was advised to keep the sheep, which were sixteen in number, close to
the tents, where they were penned up every evening. During the night
preceding the 14th, some dogs having gotten in among them, forced them
out of the pen, killed four, and dispersed the rest. Six of them were
recovered the next day; but the two rams and two of the finest ewes in
the whole flock, were amongst those which were missing. Baron
Plettenberg being at this time in the country, our commander applied
to Mr. Hemmy, the lieutenant-governor, and to the fiscal, for redress;
and both these gentlemen promised to use their endeavours for the
recovery of the lost sheep. It is the boast of the Dutch, that the
police at the Cape is so carefully executed, that it is scarcely
possible for a slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the
country, to effectuate his escape. Nevertheless, Captain Cook's sheep
evaded all the vigilance of the fiscal's officers and people. At
length, after much trouble and expense, by employing some of the
meanest and lowest scoundrels in the place, he recovered all but the
two ewes, of which he never could hear the least tidings. The
character given of the fellows to whom the captain was obliged to have
recourse, by the person who recommended their being applied to, was,
that for a ducatoon they would cut their master's throat, burn the
house over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the ashes.
During the stay of our voyagers at the Cape, some of the officers,
accompanied by Mr. Anderson, made a short excursion into the
neighbouring country. This gentleman, as usual, was very diligent in
recording every thing which appeared to him worthy of observation. His
remarks, however, in the present case, will be deemed of little
consequence, compared with the full, accurate, and curious account of
the Cape of Good Hope, with which Dr. Sparrman hath lately favoured
the literary world.
With respect to Captain Cook, besides the unavoidable care which lay
upon him, in providing his ships with whatever was requisite for the
commodious and successful prosecution of the voyage, his attention was
eminently directed to scientific objects. He was anxious to ascertain
the currents, the variations of the compass, and the latitude and
longitude of the places to which he came. The observations which he
collected, and recorded in his journal, while he was at the Cape of
Good Hope, will be esteemed of the greatest importance by judicious
navigators.
After the disaster which had happened to the sheep, it may well be
supposed that our commander did not long trust on shore those which
remained. Accordingly, he gave orders to have them, and the other
cattle, conveyed on board as fast as possible. He made an addition,
also, to the original stock, by the purchase of two young bulls, two
heifers, two young stallions, two mares, two rams, several ewes and
goats, and some rabbits and poultry. All these animals were intended
for New Zealand. Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands; and, indeed,
for any other places in the course of the voyage, where the leaving of
any of them might be of service to posterity.
In the supplies which were provided at the Cape, Captain Cook paid a
particular regard to the nature and extent of his undertaking. As it
was impossible to tell when or where he might meet with a place, which
could so amply contribute to his necessities, he thought proper to lay
in such a store of provisions for both ships, as would be sufficient
to last them for two years and upwards.
Our commander having given a copy of his instructions to Captain
Clerke, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of a
separation, weighed from Table Bay on the 30th of November, though it
was not till the 3rd of December that he got clear of the land. On the
6th the ships passed through several spots of water, nearly of a red
colour. When some of this was taken up, it was found to contain a
large quantity of small animals, of a reddish hue, and which the
microscope discovered to resemble a cray-fish. As our navigators
pursued their course to the south-east, a very strong gale, which they
had from the westward, was followed by a mountainous sea, in
consequence of which the Resolution rolled and tumbled so much, that
the cattle on board were preserved with the utmost difficulty. Soon
after, several of the goats, especially the males, together with some
sheep, died, notwithstanding, all the care to prevent it, that was
exercised by our people. This misfortune was chiefly owing to the
coldness of the weather, which now began to be felt in the most
sensible manner.
On the 12th, land was seen, which, upon a nearer approach, was found
to consist of two islands. That which lies most to the south, and is
the largest, was judged by Captain Cook to be about fifteen leagues in
circuit. The northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and the
two islands are at the distance of five leagues from each other. As
the ships passed through the channel between them, our voyagers could
not discover with the assistance of their best glasses, either tree or
shrub on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore,
and their surface is for the most part composed of barren mountains,
the summits and sides of which were covered with snow. These two
islands, together with four others which lie from nine to twelve
degrees of longitude more to the east, and nearly in the same
latitude, had been discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet,
French navigators, in January, 1772, on their passage, in two ships
from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Islands. As no names had
been assigned to them in a chart of the Southern Ocean, which Captain
Crozet communicated to Captain Cook in 1775, our commander
distinguished the two larger ones by calling them Prince Edward's
Islands, after his majesty's fourth son. To the other four, with a
view of commemorating the discoverers, he gave the name of Marion's
and Crozet's Islands.
Though it was now the middle of summer in this hemisphere, the weather
was not less severe than what is generally met with in England in the
very depth of winter. Instead however, of being discouraged by this
circumstance, the captain shaped his course in such a manner, as to
pass to the southward of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, that he might
get into the latitude of land which had been discovered by M. de
Kerguelen, another French navigator. It was part of our commander's
instructions to examine whether a good harbour might not here be
found.
As our voyagers, on the 24th, were steering to the eastward, a fog
clearing up a little, which had involved them for some time, and which
had rendered their navigation both tedious and dangerous, land was
seen, bearing south-south-east. Upon a nearer approach, it was found
to be an island of considerable height, and about three leagues in
circuit. Another island, of the same magnitude, was soon after
discovered, and in a short space a third, besides some smaller ones.
At times, as the fog broke away, there was the appearance of land over
the small islands, and Captain Cook entertained thoughts of steering
for it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, he found
that, so long as the weather continued foggy this would be a perilous
attempt. For if there should be no passage, or if our people should
meet with any sudden danger, there was such a prodigious sea, breaking
on all the shores in a frightful surf, that it would have been
impossible for the vessels to be gotten off. At the same time, the
captain saw another island; and as he did not know how many more might
succeed, he judged it prudent, in order to avoid getting entangled
among unknown lands in a thick fog, to wait for clearer weather.
The island last mentioned is a high round rock, which was named
Bligh's Cap. Our commander had received some very slight information
concerning it at Teneriffe, and his sagacity in tracing it was such,
as immediately led him to determine, that it was the same that M. de
Kerguelen had called the Isle of Rendezvous. His reason for giving it
that name is not very apparent; for nothing can rendezvous upon it but
fowls of the air, it being certainly inaccessible to every other
animal. The weather beginning to clear up, Captain Cook steered in for
the land, of which a faint view had been obtained in the morning. This
was Kerguelen's land. No sooner had our navigators gotten off Cape
Francois, then they observed the coast to the southward, to be much
indented by projecting points and bays; from which circumstance they
were sure of finding a good harbour. Accordingly, such a harbour was
speedily discovered, in which the ships came to an anchor on the 25th,
being Christmas-day. Upon landing, our commander found the shore
almost entirely covered with penguins and other birds, and with seals.
The latter, which were not numerous, having been unaccustomed to
visitors, were so insensible of fear, that as many as were wanted for
the purpose of making use of their fat or blubber, were killed without
difficulty. Fresh water was so plentiful, that every gully afforded a
large stream; but not a single tree or shrub, or the least sign of it,
could be met with, and but very little herbage of any sort. Before
Captain Cook returned to his ship, he ascended the first ridge of
rocks, that rise in a kind of amphitheatre, above one another, in
hopes of obtaining a view of the country; in which, however, he was
disappointed: for, previously to his reaching the top, there came on
so thick a fog, that he could scarcely find his way down again. In the
evening, the seine was hauled at the head of the harbour, but only
half a dozen small fish were caught. As no better success attended a
trial which was made the next day with hook and line, the only
resource for fresh provision was in birds, the store of which was
inexhaustible.
The people having wrought hard for two days, and nearly completed
their water the captain allowed them the 27th, as a day of rest, to
celebrate Christmas. Many of them, in consequence of this indulgence,
went on shore, and made excursions, in different directions, into the
country which they found barren and desolate in the highest degree.
One of them in his ramble, discovered, and brought to our commander,
in the evening, a quart bottle, fastened with some wire to a
projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. This bottle
contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following
inscription:
_Ludovico XV. Galliarum
rege et d. de Boynes
regi a Secretis ad Res
maritimas annis 1772 et
1773._
It was clear, from this inscription, that our English navigators were
not the first who had been in the place. As a memorial of our people's
having touched at the same harbour, Captain Cook wrote, as follows, on
the other side of the parchment:
_Naves Resolution
et Discovery
de Rege Magnae Britanniae,
Decembris, 1776._
He then put it again into the bottle, together with a silver twopenny
piece of 1772. Having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden
cap, he placed it, the next morning in a pile of stones, erected for
the purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour,
and near to the place where it was first found. In this position it
cannot escape the notice of any European, whom accident or design may
bring into the port. Here the captain displayed the British flag, and
named the place Christmas Harbour, from our voyagers having arrived in
it on that festival.
After our commander had finished the business of the inscription, he
went in his boat round the harbour, to examine what the shore
afforded. His more particular object was to look for drift-wood; but
he did not find a single piece throughout the whole extent of the
place. On the same day, accompanied by Mr. King, his second
lieutenant, he went upon Cape Francois, with the hope, that, from this
elevation, he might obtain a view of the sea-coast, and of the
adjoining islands. But when he had gotten up, he found, that every
distant object below him was obscured in a thick fog. The land on the
same plain, or of a greater height, was sufficiently visible, and
appeared naked and desolate in the highest degree; some hills to the
southward excepted, which were covered with snow.
On the 29th, Captain Cook departed from Christmas Harbour, and
proceeded to range along the coast, with a view of discovering its
position and extent. In pursuing his course he met with several
promontories and bays, together with a peninsula, all of which he has
described and named, chiefly in honour of his various friends. Such
was the danger of the navigation, that the ships had more than once a
very narrow escape. On the same day, another harbour was discovered,
in which the vessels came to an anchor for one night. Here the
captain, Mr. Gore, and Mr. Bayley went on shore to examine the
country, which they found, if possible, more barren and desolate than
the land that lies about Christmas Harbour: and yet, if the least
fertility were any where to be expected, it ought to have existed in
this place, which is completely sheltered from the bleak and
predominating southerly and westerly winds. Our commander observed,
with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of
any sort; and that, if he left any, they must inevitably perish.
Finding no encouragement to continue his researches, he weighed anchor
and put to sea on the 30th, having given to the harbour the name of
Port Palliser. On the same day, he came to a point, which proved to be
the very eastern extremity of Kerguelen's Land. In a large bay, near
this point, there was a prodigious quantity of sea-weed, some of which
is of a most extraordinary length. It seemed to be the same kind of
vegetable production that Sir Joseph Banks had formerly distinguished
by the appellation of _fucus giganteus_. Although the stem is not
much thicker than a man's hand, Captain Cook thought himself well
warranted to say, that part of it grows to the length of sixty fathoms
and upward.
The result of the examination of Kerguelen's Land was, that the
quantity of latitude which it occupies doth not much exceed one degree
and a quarter. Its extent, from east to west, still remains undecided.
At its first discovery, it was probably supposed to belong to a
southern continent; but, in fact, it is an island, and that of no
great extent. If our commander had not been unwilling to deprive M.
Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name, he would have been
disposed, from its sterility, to call it the Island of Desolation.
It should here be mentioned, that M. de Kerguelen made two visits to
the coast of this country; one in 1772 and another in 1773. With the
first of these voyages Captain Cook had only a very slight
acquaintance; and to the second he was totally a stranger; so that he
scarcely had any opportunity of comparing his own discoveries with
those of the French navigator. M. de Kerguelen was peculiarly
unfortunate, in having done but little to complete what he had begun;
for though he discovered a new land, he could not, in two expeditions
to it, once bring his ships to an anchor upon any part of its coasts.
Captain Cook had either fewer difficulties to struggle with, or was
more successful in surmounting them.
During the short time in which our voyagers lay in Christmas Harbour,
Mr. Anderson lost no opportunity of searching the country in every
direction. Perhaps no place, hitherto discovered, under the same
parellel of latitude, affords so scanty a field for a natural
historian. All that could be known in the space of time allotted him,
and probably all that will ever be worthy to be known, was collected
by this gentleman. A verdure, which had been seen at a little distance
from the shore, gave our people the flattering expectation of meeting
with a variety of herbage: but in this they were greatly deceived. On
landing, it was perceived, that the lively colour which had imposed
upon them, was occasioned only by one small plant, not unlike some
sorts of _saxifrage_. It grows in large spreading tufts a
considerable way up the hills. The whole catalogue of plants does not
exceed sixteen or eighteen, including several kinds of moss, and a
beautiful species of lichen, which rises higher up from the rocks than
the rest of the vegetable productions. There is not the appearance of
a shrub in the whole country. Nature has been somewhat more bountiful
in furnishing it with animals; though, strictly speaking, they are not
inhabitants of the place, being all of the marine kind. In general,
the land is only used by them for breeding, and as a resting place. Of
these animals the most considerable are seals; being of that sort
which is called the ursine seal. The birds, which have already been
mentioned as very numerous, chiefly consist of penguins, ducks,
petrels, albatrosses, shags, gulls, and sea swallows. Penguins, which
are far superior in number to the rest are of three kinds, one of
which had never been seen by any of our voyagers before. The rocks, or
foundations of the hills are principally composed of that dark blue
and very hard stone, which seems to be one of the most universal
productions of nature. Nothing was discovered that had the least
appearance of ore or metal.
From this desolate coast Captain Cook took his departure on the 31st,
intending, agreeably to his instructions, to touch next at New
Zealand; that he might obtain a recruit of water, take in wood, and
make hay for the cattle. Their number was now considerably diminished;
for two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the
goats, had died while our navigators where employed in exploring
Kerguelen's Land. For some time they had fresh gales, and tolerably
clear weather. But on the 3rd of January, 1777, the wind veered to the
north, where it continued eight days, and was attended with so thick a
fog, that the ships ran above three hundred leagues in the dark.
Occasionally the weather would clear up, and give our people a sight
of the sun; but this happened very seldom, and was always of short
continuance. However, amidst all the darkness produced by the fog, the
vessels, though they seldom saw each other, were so fortunate, in
consequence of frequently firing guns as signals, that they did not
lose company. On the 12th, the northerly winds ended in a calm. This
was succeeded, in a little time, by a wind from the southward, which
brought on a rain that continued for twenty-four hours. At the end of
the rain, the wind freshened, and veering to the west and north-west,
was followed by fair and clear weather.
Nothing very remarkable occurred to our voyagers till the 24th, when
they discovered the coast of Van Dieman's Land; and, on the 26th, the
ships came to an anchor in Adventure Bay. Captain Cook, as soon as he
had anchored, ordered the boats to be hoisted out; in one of which he
went himself, to look for the most commodious place for obtaining the
necessary supplies. Wood and water were found in abundance, and in
places sufficiently convenient; but grass, which was most wanted, was
scarce, and, at the same time, very coarse. Necessity, however,
obliged our people to take up with such as could be procured.
On the 28th, the English who were employed in cutting wood, were
agreeably surprised with a visit from some of the natives. They
consisted of eight men and a boy, who approached our voyagers not only
without fear, but with the most perfect confidence and freedom. There
was only a single person among them who had any thing which bore the
least appearance of a weapon, and that was no more than a stick about
two feet long, and pointed at one end. These people were quite naked,
and wore no kind of ornaments; unless some large punctures, or ridges,
raised in different parts of their bodies, either in straight or
curved lines, may be considered in that light. Most of them had their
hair and beards smeared with a red ointment: and the faces of some of
them were painted with the same composition. Every present which
Captain Cook made them they received without the least appearance of
satisfaction. Of bread and elephant fish, which were offered them,
they refused to taste, but shewed that they were fond of birds, as an
article of food. Two pigs, which the captain had brought on shore,
having come within their reach, they seized them by the ears, as a dog
would have done, and would have carried them off immediately,
apparently with no other intention than to kill them. Our commander
being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of the
Indians had in his hands, he signified, by signs, his wishes to that
purpose. His intimations so far succeeded, that one of them set up a
piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it at the distance of about
twenty yards. There was but little reason to commend his dexterity;
for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide from his object.
Omai, to convince the natives how much our weapons were superior to
theirs, then fired his musket at the mark by which they were so
greatly terrified, that, notwithstanding all the endeavours of the
English to quiet their minds, they ran instantly into the woods.
After the retreat of the Indians, Captain Cook, judging that their
fears would prevent their remaining near enough to observe what
passed, ordered the two pigs, being a boar and sow, to be carried
about a mile within the head of the bay, and saw them left there, by
the side of a fresh water brook. It was, at first, his benevolent
intention to make an additional present to Van Dieman's Land, of a
young bull and cow, together with some sheep and goats. But, upon
reflection, he laid aside this design; being persuaded that the
natives would destroy them, from, their incapacity of entering into
his views with regard to the improvement of their country. As pigs are
animals which soon become wild, and are fond of the thickest cover of
the woods, there was the greater probability of their being preserved.
For the accommodation of the other cattle, an open place must have
been chosen; in which situation they could not possibly have been
concealed many days.
On the 29th, about twenty of the inhabitants, men and boys, joined
Captain Cook and such of his people as had landed with him, without
manifesting the least sign of fear or distrust. It was remarkable,
that one of the Indians was conspicuously deformed; nor was he more
distinguished by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his
gestures, and the humour of his speeches, which had the appearance of
being intended for the entertainment of our voyagers. Unfortunately,
the language in which he spake to them was wholly unintelligible. To
each of the present group the captain gave a string of beads and a
medal, which they seemed to receive with some satisfaction. On iron,
and iron tools, they appeared to set no value. There was reason to
believe, that they were even ignorant of fish-hooks; and yet it is
difficult to suppose, that a people who inhabit a sea-coast, and who
were not observed to derive any part of their sustenance from the
productions of the ground, should be unacquainted with some mode of
catching fish. However, they were never seen to be thus employed; nor
was any canoe or vessel discovered by which they could go upon the
water. Though they had rejected the kind of fish which had been
offered them, it was evident that shell fish made a part of their
food.
After Captain Cook had left the shore, several women and children made
their appearance, and were introduced to Lieutenant King by some of
the men that attended them. These females (a kanguroo skin excepted,
which was tied over their shoulders, and seemed to be intended to
support their infants) were as naked and as black as the men, and had
their bodies marked with scars in the same manner. Many of the
children had fine features, and were thought to be pretty; but a less
favourable report was made of the women, and especially of those who
were advanced in years. Some of the gentlemen, however, belonging to
the Discovery, as our commander was informed, paid their addresses and
made liberal offers of presents, which were rejected with great
disdain. It is certain that this gallantry was not very agreeable to
the men: for an elderly man, as soon as he observed it, ordered the
women to retire. The order was obeyed; but, on the part of some of the
females, with the appearance of a little reluctance.
On the present occasion, Captain Cook made some proper and pertinent
reflections, which I shall deliver in his own words. 'This conduct,'
says he, 'of Europeans among savages, to their women, is highly
blamable; as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be attended
with consequences fatal to the success of the common enterprise, and
to the whole body of adventures, without advancing the private purpose
of the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. I
believe it has generally been found, amongst uncivilized people, that
where the women are easy of access, the men are the first to offer
them to strangers; and that, where this is not the case, neither the
allurements of presents, nor the opportunity of privacy will be likely
to have the desired effect. This observation, I am sure, will hold
good throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why
then should men act so absurd a part, as to risk their own safety, and
that of all their companions, in pursuit of a gratification, which
they have no probability of obtaining?'
While our navigators were at Van Dieman's Land, they were successful
in obtaining a plentiful crop of grass for their cattle, and such as
was far more excellent than what they had met with at their first
going on shore. The quantity collected was judged by the captain to be
sufficient to last till his arrival in New-Zealand.
Van Dieman's Land had been visited twice before. That name had been
given it by Tasman, who discovered it in 1642; from which time it had
escaped all notice of European navigators, till Captain Furneaux
touched at it, in 1773. It is well known that it is the southern point
of New Holland, which is by far the largest island in the world;
indeed, so large an island, as almost to deserve the appellation of a
continent.
While Captain Cook was at this country, he neglected nothing which
could promote the knowledge of science and navigation. Here, as every
where else, he settled the latitude and longitude of places; marked
the variations of the compass, and recorded the nature of the tides.
He corrected, likewise, an error of Captain Furneaux, with respect to
the situation of Maria's Islands; on which subject he hath candidly
remarked, that his own idea is not the result of a more faithful, but
merely of a second, examination.
Mr. Anderson, during the few days in which the ships remained in
Adventure Bay, exerted his usual diligence in collecting as full an
account as could be obtained, in so short a period of time, of the
natural productions and the inhabitants of the country. Little can be
said concerning either the personal activity or genius of the natives.
The first, they do not seem to possess in any remarkable degree; and,
to all appearance, they have less of the last, than even the
half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. Their not expressing
that surprise which might have been expected, from their seeing men so
much unlike themselves, and things to which they had hitherto been
utter strangers; their indifference for the presents of our people,
and their general inattention, were sufficient testimonies that they
were not endued with any acuteness of understanding. What the ancient
poets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees is realized
at Van Dieman's Land. Some wretched constructions of sticks, covered
with bark, and which did not deserve the name of huts, were indeed
found near the shore; but these seemed only to have been erected for
temporary purposes. The most comfortable habitations of the natives
were afforded by the largest trees. These had their trunks hollowed
out by fire, to the height of six or seven feet; and there was room
enough in them for three or four persons to sit round a hearth, made
of clay. At the same time, these places of shelter are durable; for
the people take care to leave one side of the tree sound, which is
sufficient to keep it in luxuriant growth. The inhabitants of Van
Dieman's Land are undoubtedly from the same stock with those of the
northern parts of New Holland. Their language, indeed, appeared to be
different; but how far the difference extended, our voyagers could not
have an opportunity of determining. With regard to the New Hollanders
in general, there is reason to suppose that they originally came from
the same place with all the Indians of the South Sea.
On the 30th of January, 1777, Captain Cook sailed from Adventure Bay,
and on the 12th of February came to an anchor at his old station of
Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand. Being unwilling to lose any
time, he commenced his operations that very afternoon. By his order,
several of the empty water casks were immediately landed, and a place
was begun to be cleared for setting up the two observatories, and the
erection of tents, to accommodate a guard, and the rest of the
company, whose business might require them to remain on shore. Our
navigators had not long been at anchor, before a number of canoes,
filled with natives, came alongside of the ships. However, very few of
them would venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, as
the captain was well known to them all, and they could not be
insensible how liberally he had behaved to them on former occasions.
There was one man in particular, whom he had treated with remarkable
kindness, during the whole of his last stay in this place; and yet,
neither professions of friendship, nor presents, could prevail upon
him to enter the Resolution.
There was a real cause for this shyness on the part of the New
Zealanders. A dreadful event had happened to some of Captain
Furneaux's crew, while he lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, after he had
finally separated from Captain Cook, in the former voyage. Ten men,
who had been sent out in the large cutter to gather wild greens, for
the ship's company, were killed in a skirmish with the natives. What
was the cause of the quarrel could not be ascertained, as not one of
the company survived to relate the story. Lieutenant Burney, who was
ordered to go in search of them, found only some fragments of their
bodies, from which it appeared that they had been converted into the
food of the inhabitants. It was the remembrance of this event, and the
fear of its being revenged, which now rendered the New Zealanders so
fearful of entering the English vessels. From the conversation of
Omai, who was on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair
happened, they knew that it could not be unknown to Captain Cook. The
captain, therefore, judged it necessary to use every endeavour to
assure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should
not disturb them on account of the catastrophe. It was most probably
in consequence of this assurance, that they soon laid aside all manner
of restraint and distrust.
In the meanwhile, the operations for refitting the ships, and for
obtaining provisions were carried on with great vigour, for the
protection of the party on shore, our commander appointed a guard of
ten marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen; with whom Mr. King,
and two or three petty officers, constantly remained. A boat was never
sent to a considerable distance without being armed, or without being
under the direction of such officers as might be depended upon, and
who were well acquainted with the natives. In Captain Cook's former
visits to this country, he had never made use of such precautions; nor
was he now convinced of their absolute necessity. But, after the
tragical fate of the crew of the Adventure's boat in this sound, and
of Captain Marion du Fresne, and some of his people, in the Bay of
Islands (in 1772), it was impossible to free our navigators from all
apprehensions of experiencing a similar calamity.
Whatever suspicions the inhabitants might at first entertain, that
their acts of barbarity would be revenged, they very speedily became
so perfectly easy upon the subject, as to take up their residence
close to our voyagers; and the advantage of their coming to live with
the English was not inconsiderable. Every day, when the weather would
permit, some of them went out to catch fish, and our people generally
obtained, by exchanges, a good share of the produce of their labours,
in addition to the supply which was afforded by our own nets and
lines. Nor was there a deficiency of vegetable refreshments; to which
was united sprucebeer for drink; so that if the seeds of the scurvy
had been contracted by any of the crew, they would speedily have been
removed by such a regimen. The fact, however, was, that there was only
two invalids upon the sick lists in both ships.
Curiosities, fish, and women, were the articles of commerce supplied
by the New Zealanders. The two first always came to a good market; but
the latter did not happen, at this time, to be an acceptable
commodity. Our seamen had conceived a dislike to these people, and
were either unwilling or afraid to associate with them; the good
effect of which was, that our commander knew no instance of a man's
quitting his station, to go to the habitations of the Indians. A
connexion with women it was out of Captain Cook's power to prevent;
but he never encouraged it, and always was fearful of its
consequences. Many, indeed, are of opinion, that such an intercourse
is a great security among savages. But if this should ever be the case
with those who remain and settle among them, it is generally otherwise
with respect to travellers and transient visitors. In such a situation
as was that of our navigators, a connexion with the women of the
natives, betrays more men than it saves. 'What else,' says the
captain, 'can reasonably be expected, since all their views are
selfish without the least mixture of regard or attachment? My own
experience, at least, which hath been pretty extensive, hath not
pointed out to me one instance to the contrary.'
Amongst the persons who occasionally visited the English, was a chief
of the name of Kahoora, who, as Captain Cook was informed, had headed
the party that cutoff Captain Furneaux's people, and had himself
killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. This man our commander was
strongly solicited to put to death, even by some of the natives; and
Omai was perfectly eager and violent upon the subject. To these
solicitations the captain paid not the least degree of attention. He
even admired Kahoora's courage, and was not a little pleased with the
confidence with which he had put himself into his power. Kahoora had
placed his whole safety in the declarations that Captain Cook had
uniformly made to the New Zealanders; which were that he had always
been a friend to them all, and would continue to be so, unless they
gave him cause to act otherwise; that as to their inhuman treatment of
our people, he should think no more of it, the transaction having
happened long ago, and when he was not present; but that, if ever they
made a second attempt of the same kind, they might rest assured of
feeling the weight of his resentment.
While our commander on the 16th, was making an excursion for the
purposes of collecting food for his cattle, he embraced the
opportunity to inquire, as accurately as possible, into the
circumstances which had attended the melancholy fate of our
countrymen. Omai was his interpreter on this occasion. The result of
the inquiry was, that the quarrel first took its rise from some
thefts, in the commission of which the natives were detected; that
there was no premeditated plan of bloodshed; and that if these thefts
had not, unfortunately, been too hastily resented, no mischief would
have happened. Kahoora's greatest enemies, and even the very men that
had most earnestly solicited his destruction, confessed, at the same
time, that he had no intention of quarrelling with Captain Furneaux's
people, and much less of killing any of them, till the fray had
actually commenced.
Captain Cook continued in this his last visit to New Zealand, the
solicitude he had formerly shewn to be of some essential future
service to the country. To one chief he gave two goats, a male and
female, with a kid; and to another two pigs, a boar and a sow.
Although he had obtained a promise from both these chiefs, that they
would not kill the animals which had been presented to them, he could
not venture to place any great reliance upon their assurances. It was
his full intention, on his present arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound,
to have left not only goats and hogs, but sheep, together with a young
bull and two heifers. The accomplishment, however, of this resolution
depended either upon his finding a chief, who was powerful enough to
protect and keep the cattle, or upon his meeting with a place where
there might be a probability of their being concealed from those who
would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. Neither of these
circumstances happened to be conformable to his wishes. At different
times he had left to New Zealand ten or a dozen hogs, besides those
which had been put on shore by Captain Furneaux. It will, therefore,
be a little extraordinary, if this race of animals should not increase
and be preserved, either in a wild or a domestic state, or in both.
Our commander was informed, that Tiratou, a popular chief among the
natives, had a number of cocks and hens, and one sow, in his separate
possession. With regard to the gardens which had formerly been planted
though they had almost entirely been neglected, and some of them
destroyed, they were not wholly unproductive. They were found to
contain cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, mustard, and a
few potatoes. The potatoes, which had first been brought from the Cape
of Good Hope, were greatly meliorated by change of soil; and, with
proper cultivation, would be superior to those produced in most other
countries.
A great addition of knowledge was obtained, during this voyage, with
respect to the productions of New Zealand, and the manners and the
customs of its inhabitants. The zeal of Captain Cook upon the subject
was admirably seconded by the sedulous diligence of Mr. Anderson, who
omitted no opportunity of collecting every kind and degree of
information. I shall only so far trespass on the patience of my
readers, as to mention a few circumstances tending to delineate the
character of the natives. They seemed to be a people perfectly
satisfied with the little they already possess; nor are they
remarkably curious either in their observations or their inquiries.
New objects are so far from striking them with such a degree of
surprise as might naturally be expected, that they scarcely fix their
attention even for a moment. In the arts with which they are
acquainted, they shew as much ingenuity, both in invention and
execution, as any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances.
Without the least use of those tools which are formed of metal, they
make every thing that is necessary to procure their subsistence,
clothing, and military weapons; and all this is done by them with a
neatness, a strength, and a convenience, that are well adapted to the
accomplishment of the several purposes they have in view. No people
can have a quicker sense of an injury done to them than the New
Zealanders, or be more ready to resent it; and yet they want one
characteristic of true bravery; for they will take an opportunity of
being insolent, when they think that there is no danger of their being
punished. From the number of their weapons, and their dexterity in
using them, it appears, that war is their principal profession.
Indeed, their public contentions are so frequent, or rather so
perpetual, that they must live under continual apprehensions of being
destroyed by each other. From their horrid custom of eating the flesh
of their enemies, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar
satisfaction, it would be natural to suppose that they must be
destitute of every humane feeling, even with regard to their own
party. This, however, is not the case; for they lament the loss of
their friends with a violence of expression which argues the most
tender remembrance of them. At a very early age the children are
initiated into all the practices, whether good or bad, of their
fathers; so that a boy or girl, when only nine or ten years old, can
perform the motions, and imitate the frightful gestures, by which the
more aged are accustomed to inspire their enemies with terror. They
can keep likewise the strictest time in their song; and it is with
some degree of melody that they sing the traditions of their
forefathers, their actions in war, and other subjects. The military
achievements of their ancestors, the New Zealanders celebrate with the
highest pleasure, and spend much of their time in diversions of this
sort, and in playing upon a musical instrument, which partakes of the
nature of a flute. With respect to their language, it is far from
being harsh or disagreeable, though the pronunciation of it is
frequently guttural; nor, if we may judge from the melody of some
kinds of their songs, is it destitute of those qualities, which fit it
to be associated with music. Of its identity with the languages of the
other islands throughout the South Sea, fresh proofs were exhibited
during the present voyage.
At the request of Omai, Captain Cook consented to take with him two
youths from New Zealand. That they might not quit their native country
under any deluding ideas of visiting it again, the captain took care
to inform their parents, in the strongest terms, that they would never
return. This declaration seemed, however, to make no kind of
impression. The father of the youngest had resigned him with an
indifference, which he would scarcely have shewn at parting with his
dog, and even stripped the boy of the little clothing he possessed,
delivering him quite naked into the hands of our voyagers. This was
not the case with the mother of the other youth. She took her leave of
him with all the marks of tender affection that might be expected
between a parent and a child on such an occasion; but she soon resumed
her cheerfulness, and went away wholly unconcerned.
On the 25th of the month, Captain Cook stood out of Queen Charlotte's
Sound, and by the 27th got clear of New Zealand. No sooner had the
ships lost sight of the land, than the two young adventurers from that
country, one of whom was nearly eighteen years of age, and the other
about ten, began deeply to repent of the step they had taken. It was
the experience of the sea-sickness, which gave this turn to their
reflections; and all the soothing encouragement the English could
think of, was but of a little avail. They wept, both in public and in
private, and made their lamentation in a kind of song, that seemed to
be expressive of the praises of their country and people, from which
they were to be separated for ever. In this disposition they continued
for many days: but as their sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult of
their minds subsided, the fits of lamentation became less and less
frequent, and at length entirely ceased. By degrees, their native
country and their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be as
firmly attached to our navigators, as if they had been born in
England.
In the prosecution of the voyage, Captain Cook met with unfavourable
winds; and it was not till the 29th of March that land was discovered.
It was found to be an inhabited island, the name of which, as was
learned from two of the natives, who came off in a canoe, is Mangeea.
Our commander examined the coast with his boats, and had a short
intercourse with some of the inhabitants. Not being able to find a
proper harbour for bringing the ships to an anchorage, he was obliged,
to leave the country unvisited, though it seemed capable of supplying
all the wants of our voyagers. The island of Mangeea is full five
leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height. It has,
upon the whole, a pleasing aspect, and might be made a beautiful spot
by cultivation. The inhabitants, who appeared to be both numerous and
well fed, seemed to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas in
the beauty of their persons; and the resemblance, as far as could be
judged in so short a compass of time, takes place, with respect to
their general disposition and character.
From the coast of Mangeea our commander sailed in the afternoon of the
30th, and on the next day land was again seen, within four leagues of
which the ships arrived on the 1st of April. Our people could then
pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extent
with that which had so lately been left. Some of the natives speedily
put off in their canoes, and three of them were pursuaded to come on
board the Resolution; on which occasion, their whole behaviour marked
that they were quite at their ease, and felt no kind of apprehension
that they should be detained, or ill used. In a visit from several
others of the inhabitants, they manifested a dread of approaching near
the cows and horses: nor could they form the least conception of their
nature. But the sheep and goats did not, in their opinion, surpass the
limits of their ideas; for they gave our navigators to understand that
they knew them to be birds. As there is not the most distant
resemblance between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal, this may
be thought to be almost an incredible example of human ignorance. But
it should be remembered, that, excepting hogs, dogs, and birds, these
people were strangers to the existence of any other land animals.
In a farther intercourse with the natives, who had brought a hog,
together with some plantains and cocoanuts, they demanded a dog from
our voyagers, and refused every thing besides which was offered in
exchange. One of the gentlemen on board happened to have a dog and a
bitch which were great nuisances in the ship; and these he might now
have disposed of in a manner that would have been of real future
utility to the island. But he had no such views in making them the
companions of his voyage. Omai, however, with a goodnature that
reflects honour upon him, parted with a favourite dog which he had
brought from England; and with this acquisition the people departed
highly satisfied.
On the 3rd of April, Captain Cook dispatched Mr. Gore, with three
boats, to endeavour to get upon the island. Mr. Gore himself, Omai,
Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney were the only persons that landed. The
transactions of the day, of which Mr. Anderson, drew up an ingenious
and entertaining account, added to the stock of knowledge gained by
our navigators, but did not accomplish Captain Cook's principal
object. Nothing was procured by the gentlemen, from the island, that
supplied the wants of the ships. In this expedition, Omai displayed
that turn of exaggeration, with which travellers have so frequently
been charged. Being asked by the natives concerning the English, their
ships, their country, and the arms they made use of, his answers were
not a little marvellous. He told these people, that our country had
ships as large as their islands; on board which were instruments of
war (describing our guns) of such dimensions, that several persons
might sit within them. At the same time, he assured the inhabitants,
that one of these guns was sufficient to crush their whole island at a
single shot. Though he was obliged to acknowledge that the guns on
board the vessels upon their coast were but small, he contrived by an
explosion of gunpowder, to inspire them with a formidable idea of
their nature and effect. It is probable, that this representation of,
things contributed to the preservation of the gentlemen, in their
enterprise on shore; for a strong disposition to retain them had been
shewn by the natives.
It seemed destined that this day should give Omai more occasions than
one of bearing a principal part in its transactions. The island,
though never visited by Europeans before, happened to have other
strangers residing in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's having
attended on the expedition, that a circumstance so curious came to the
knowledge of the English. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach,
when he found, among the crowd which had assembled there, three of his
own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. That, at the distance
of about two hundred leagues from those islands, an immense unknown
ocean intervening, with the wretched boats their inhabitants are known
to make use of, and fit only for a passage where sight of land is
scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, so accidentally
visited, should occur, may well be regarded as one of those unexpected
situations with which the writers of feigned adventures love to
surprise their readers. When events of this kind really happen in
common life, they deserve to be recorded for their singularity. It may
easily be supposed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction this
interview of Omai with his countrymen was attended. Twelve years
before, about twenty persons in number, of both sexes, had embarked on
board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island of
Ulietea. A violent storm having arisen, which drove them out of their
course, and their provisions being very scanty, they suffered
incredible hardships, and the greatest part of them perished by famine
and fatigue. Four men only survived when the boat overset, and then
the destruction of this small remnant appeared to be inevitable.
However, they kept hanging by the side of the vessel, which they
continued to do for some days, when they were providentially brought
within sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out
canoes and brought them on shore. The three men who now survived,
expressed a strong sense of the kind treatment they had received; and
so well satisfied were they with their present situation, that they
refused an offer which was made them of being conveyed to their native
country. A very important instruction may be derived from the
preceding narrative. It will serve to explain, better than a thousand
conjectures of speculative reasoners, how the detached parts of the
earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, though
lying remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other, may
have originally been peopled. Similar adventures have occurred in the
history of navigation and shipwrecks.
The island on which Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderson, Mr. Burney, and Omai, had
landed is called Wateeoo by the natives, and is a beautiful spot,
having a surface composed of hills and plains, which are covered with
a verdure rendered extremely pleasant by the diversity of its hues.
Its inhabitants are very numerous; and many of the young men were
perfect models in shape; besides which, they had complexions as
delicate as those of the women, and appeared to be equally amiable in
their dispositions. In their manners, their general habits of life,
and their religious ceremonies and opinions, these islanders have a
near resemblance to the people of Otaheite and its neighbouring isles;
and their language was well understood, both by Omai and the two New
Zealanders.
The next place visited by Captain Cook was a small island, called
Wennooa-ette, or Otakootaia, to which Mr. Gore was sent, at the head
of a party who procured about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship, and
some grass, together with a quantity of the leaves and branches of
young trees, for the cattle. Though, at this time, no inhabitants were
found in Wennooa-ette, yet, as there remained indubitable marks of its
being, at least, occasionally frequented, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and
several nails, to the full value of what had been taken away.
On the 5th, our commander directed his course for Harvey's Island,
which was only at the distance of fifteen leagues, and where he hoped
to procure some refreshments. This island had been discovered by him,
in 1773, during his last voyage, when no traces were discerned of its
having any inhabitants. It was now experienced to be well peopled, and
by a race of men who appeared to differ much, both in person and
disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo. Their behaviour was
disorderly and clamorous; their colour was of a deeper cast; and
several of them had a fierce and rugged aspect. It was remarkable,
that not one of them had adopted the practice, so generally prevalent
among the people of the southern Ocean, of puncturing or
_tatooing_ their bodies. But notwithstanding this singularity,
the most unequivocal proofs were exhibited of their having the same
common origin; and their language, in particular, approached still
nearer to the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangea. No
anchorage for the ships being found in Harvey's island, Captain Cook
quitted it without delay.
The captain being thus disappointed at all the islands he had met
with, since his leaving New Zealand, and his progress having
unavoidably been retarded by unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen
circumstances, it became impossible to think of doing any thing this
year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which he
was still at so great a distance, though the season for his operations
there was already begun. In this situation, it was absolutely
necessary, in the first place, to pursue such measures as were most
likely to preserve the cattle that were on board. A still more capital
object was to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that he
might the better be enabled to prosecute his discoveries to the north,
which could not now be commenced till a year later than was originally
intended. If he had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of
water, and of grass, at any of the islands he had lately visited, it
was his purpose to have stood back to the south, till he had met with
a westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this, without
such a supply, would have been the loss of all the cattle; while at
the same time, not a single advantage would have been gained, with
regard to the grand ends of the voyage. He determined, therefore, to
beat away for the Friendly Islands, where he was sure of being
abundantly provided.
In pursuing his course, agreeably to this resolution, our commander,
on the 14th, reached Palmerston Island, where, and at a neighbouring
islet, both of which were uninhabited, some little relief was
obtained. The boats soon procured a load of scurvy-grass and young
cocoa-nut trees, which was a feast for the cattle; and the same feast,
with the addition of palm cabbage, and the tender branches of the
_wharra_ tree, was continued for several days. On the 16th, Omai,
being on shore with the captain, caught with a scoop-net, in a very
short time, as much fish as served the whole party for dinner, besides
sending a quantity to both the ships. Birds, too, and particularly
men-of-war and tropic birds, were plentifully obtained; so that our
navigators had sumptuous entertainment. Omai acted as cook upon the
occasion. The fish and the birds he dressed with heated stones, after
the manner of his country; and performed the operation with a
dexterity and good humour which were greatly to his credit. From the
islet before mentioned, twelve hundred cocoa-nuts were procured, which
being equally divided among the crew, were of great use to them, both
on account of the juice and the kernel. There is no water in the
islets which are comprehended under the name of Palmerston Island. If
that article could be obtained, and good anchorage could be
accomplished within the reef, Captain Cook would prefer this island to
any of the uninhabited ones, for the mere purpose of refreshment. The
quantity of fish that might be caught would be sufficient; and a
ship's company could roam about unmolested by the petulance of the
inhabitants.
Different opinions have been entertained concerning the formation of
the low islands in the great ocean. From the observations which our
commander now made, he was convinced, that such islands are formed
from shoals, or coral banks, and, consequently, that they are always
increasing.
After leaving Palmerston's Island, Captain Cook steered to the west,
with a view of making the best of his way to Annamooka. During his
course, the showers were so copious, that our navigators saved a
considerable quantity of water. Finding that a greater supply could be
obtained by the rain in one hour, than could be gotten by distillation
in a month, the captain laid aside the still as a thing which was
attended with more trouble than profit. At this time, the united heat
and moisture of the weather, in addition to the impossibility of
keeping the ships dry, threatened to be noxious to the health of our
people. It was however, remarkable, that neither the constant use of
salt food, nor the vicissitudes of climate, were productive of any
evil effects. Though the only material refreshment our voyagers had
received, since their leaving the Cape of Good Hope, was that which
they had procured at New Zealand, there was not, as yet, a single sick
person on board. This happy situation of things was undoubtedly owing
to the unremitting attention of our commander, in seeing that no
circumstance was neglected, which could contribute to the preservation
of the health of his company.
On the 28th of April, Captain Cook touched at the Island of Komango;
and, on the 1st of May, he arrived at Annamooka. The station he took
was the very same which he had occupied when he visited the country
three years before; and it was probably almost in the same place where
Tasman, the first discoverer of this and some of the neighbouring
islands, anchored in 1643. A friendly intercourse was immediately
opened with the natives, and every thing was settled to the captain's
satisfaction. He received the greatest civilities from Toobou, the
chief of Annamooka; and Taipa, a chief from the Island of Komango,
attached himself to the English in so extraordinary a manner, that, in
order to be near them in the night, as well as in the day, he had a
house brought on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and placed
close to the shed, which was occupied by our party on shore. On the
6th our commander was visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose
name was Feenou, and who was falsely represented, by Taipa, to be the
king of all the Friendly Isles. The only interruption to the harmony
which subsisted between our people and the natives of Annamooka arose
from the thievish disposition of many of the inhabitants. They
afforded frequent opportunities of remarking, how expert they were in
the business of stealing. Even some of the chiefs did not think the
profession unbecoming their dignity. One of them was detected in
carrying a bolt out of the ship, concealed under his clothes; for
which Captain Cook sentenced him to have a dozen lashes, and kept him
confined till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this act of
justice, our navigators were no longer troubled with thieves of rank:
but their servants, or slaves, were still employed in the dirty work;
and upon them a flogging seemed to make no greater impression that it
would have done upon the mainmast. When any of them happened to be
caught in the act, so far were their masters from interceding in their
favour, that they often advised our gentlemen to kill them. This,
however, being a punishment too severe to be inflicted, they generally
escaped without being punished at all; for of the shame, as well as of
the pain of corporal chastisement, they appeared to be equally
insensible. At length, Captain Clerke invented a mode of treatment,
which was thought to be productive of some good effect. He put the
thieves into the hands of the barber, and completely shaved their
heads. In consequence of this operation, they became objects of
ridicule to their own countrymen; and our people, by keeping them at a
distance, were enabled to deprive them of future opportunities for a
repetition of their rogueries.
The island of Annamooka being exhausted of its articles of food,
Captain Cook proposed, on the 11th, to proceed directly for
Tongataboo. From this resolution, however, he was diverted, at the
instance of Feenou, who warmly recommended in preference to it, an
island, or rather a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to the
north-east. There, he assured our voyagers, they could be plentifully
supplied with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; and he
enforced his advice by engaging to attend them thither in person.
Accordingly, Hapaee was made choice of for the next station; and the
examination of it became an object with the captain, as it had never
been visited by any European ships.
On the 17th, our commander arrived at Hapaee, where he met with a most
friendly reception from the inhabitants, and from Earoupa, the chief
of the island. During the whole stay of our navigators, the time was
spent in a reciprocation of presents, civilities, and solemnities. On
the part of the natives were displayed single combats with clubs,
wrestling and boxing-matches, female combatants, dances performed by
men, and night entertainments of singing and dancing. The English, on
the other hand, gave pleasure to the Indians by exercising the
marines, and excited their astonishment by the exhibition of
fireworks. After curiosity had, on both sides, been sufficiently
gratified, Captain Cook applied himself to the examination of Hapaee,
Lefooga, and other neighbouring islands. As the ships were returning,
on the 31st, from these islands to Annamooka, the Resolution was very
near running full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa,
surrounded with breakers. It fortunately happened, that the men had
just been ordered upon deck to put the vessel about, and were most of
them at their stations; so that the necessary movements were executed
not only with judgment, but also with alertness. This alone saved the
ship and her company from destruction. 'Such hazardous situations,'
says the captain, 'are the unavoidable companions of the man who goes
upon a voyage of discovery.'
During our commander's expedition to Hapaee, he was introduced to
Poulaho, the real king of the Friendly Isles; in whose presence it
instantly appeared how groundless had been Feenou's pretensions to
that character. Feenou, however, was a chief of great note and
influence. By Poulaho Captain Cook was invited to pass over to
Tongataboo, which request he complied with after he had touched, for
two or three days, at Annamooka. In the passage, the Resolution was
insensibly drawn upon a large flat, on which lay innumerable coral
rocks of different depths below the surface of the water.
Notwithstanding all the care and attention of our people to keep her
clear of them, they could not prevent her from striking on one of
these rocks. The same event happened to the Discovery; but fortunately
neither of the ships stuck fast or received any damage.
On the 10th of June, Captain Cook arrived at Tongataboo, where the
king was waiting for him upon the beach, and immediately conducted him
to a small, but neat house, which, he was told, was at his service,
during his stay in the island. The house was situated a little within
the skirts of the woods, and had a fine large area before it; so that
a more agreeable spot could not have been provided. Our commander's
arrival at Tongataboo was followed by a succession of entertainments
similar to those which had occurred at Hapaee, though somewhat
diversified in circumstances, and exhibited with additional splendour.
The pleasure, however, of the visit was occasionally interrupted by
the thieveries of many of the inhabitants. Nothing could prevent their
plundering our voyagers, in every quarter; and they did it in the most
daring and insolent manner. There was scarcely any thing which they
did not attempt to steal; and yet, as the crowd was always great, the
captain would not permit the sentinels to fire, lest the innocent
should suffer with the guilty.
Captain Cook, on the 19th, made a distribution of the animals which he
had selected as presents for the principal men of the island. To
Poulaho, the king, he gave a young English bull and cow, together with
three goats; to Mareewagee, a chief of consequence, a Cape ram and two
ewes; and to Feenou a horse and a mare. He likewise left in the island
a young boar and three young sows of the English breed; and two
rabbits, a buck and a doe. Omai, at the same time, was instructed to
represent the importance of these animals, and to explain, as far as
he was capable of doing it, the manner in which they should be
preserved and treated. Even the generosity of the captain was not
without its inconveniences. It soon appeared that some were
dissatisfied with the allotment of the animals; for, next morning, two
kids and two Turkey-cocks were missing. As our commander could not
suppose, that this was an accidental loss, he determined to have them
again. The first step he took was to seize on three canoes that
happened to be alongside the ships; after which he went on shore, and
having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, he
immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand, that
they must remain under restraint, till not only the kid and the
turkeys, but the rest of the things which, at different times, had
been stolen from our voyagers, should be restored. This bold step of
Captain Cook was attended with a very good effect. Some of the
articles which had been lost were instantly brought back, and such
good assurances were given with regard to the remainder, that, in the
afternoon, the chiefs were released. It was a happy circumstance, with
respect to this transaction, that it did not abate the future
confidence of Poulaho and his friends in the captain's kind and
generous treatment.
On the 5th of July was an eclipse of the sun, which, however, in
consequence of unfavourable weather, was very imperfectly observed.
Happily, the disappointment was of little consequence, as the
longitude was more than sufficiently determined by lunar observations.
Captain Cook sailed from Tongataboo on the 10th, and, two days after,
came to anchor at the island of Middleburg, or Eooa, as it is called
by the inhabitants. Here he was immediately visited by Taoofa, the
chief, with whom he had formerly been acquainted. The intercourse now
renewed was friendly in the highest degree, both with Taoofa and the
rest of the natives; and our commander endeavoured to meliorate their
condition by planting a pineapple and sowing the seeds of melons, and
other vegetables, in the chief's plantation. To this he was encouraged
by a proof that his past endeavours had not been wholly unsuccessful.
He had, one day, served up to him at his dinner, a dish of turnips,
being the produce of the seeds which he had left at Eooa in his last
voyage.
The stay which Captain Cook made at the Friendly Islands was between
two and three months; during which time, some accidental difference
excepted, there subsisted the utmost cordiality between the English
and the natives. These differences were never attended with any fatal
consequences; which happy circumstance was principally owing to the
unremitting attention of the captain, who directed all his measures
with a view to the prevention of such quarrels, as would be injurious
either to the inhabitants or to his own people. So long as our
navigators staid at the islands, they expended very little of their
sea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the produce of the
country, and carrying away with them a quantity of refreshments,
sufficient to last till their arrival at another station, where they
could depend upon a fresh supply. It was a singular pleasure to our
commander, that he possessed an opportunity of adding to the happiness
of these good Indians, by the useful animals which he left among them.
Upon the whole, the advantages of having landed at the Friendly
Islands were very great; and Captain Cook reflected upon it with
peculiar satisfaction, that these advantages were obtained without
retarding, for a single moment, the prosecution of the great object of
his voyage; the season for proceeding to the north having been
previously lost.
Besides the immediate benefits which both the natives and the English
derived from their mutual intercourse on the present occasion, such a
large addition was now made to the geographical knowledge of this part
of the Pacific Ocean, as may render no small service to future
navigators. Under the denomination of the Friendly Islands must be
included not only the group of Hapaee, but all those islands that have
been discovered nearly under the same meridian, to the north, as well
as some others, which, though they have never hitherto been seen by
any European voyagers, are under the dominion of Tongataboo. From the
information which our commander received, it appears, that this
archipelago is very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands
were reckoned up by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to
ascertain their number; and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence,
procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or
hilly, and thirty-five of them large. Concerning the size of the
thirty-two which were unexplored, it can only be mentioned, that they
must be larger than Annamooka, which was ranked amongst the smaller
isles. Several, indeed, of those which belong to this latter
denomination, are mere spots, without inhabitants. Captain Cook had
not the least doubt but that Prince William's Islands, discovered and
so named by Tasman, were comprehended in the list furnished by the
natives. He had also good authority for believing that Keppel's and
Boscawen's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries to 1765, were
included in the same list; and that they were under the sovereign of
Tongataboo, which is the grand seat of government. It must be left to
future navigators to extend the geography of this part of the South
Pacific Ocean, by ascertaining the exact situation and size of nearly
a hundred islands, in the neighbourhood, which our commander had no
opportunity of exploring.
During the present visit to the Friendly Islands, large additions were
made to the knowledge which was obtained, in the last voyage, of the
natural history and productions of the country, and the manners and
customs of its inhabitants. Though it does not fall within the plan of
this narrative to enter into a detail of the particulars recorded, I
cannot help taking notice of the explanation which Captain Cook has
given of the thievish disposition of the natives. It is an explanation
which reflects honour upon his sagacity, humanity, and candour and
therefore I shall relate it in his own words: 'The only defect,' says
he, 'sullying their character, that we know of, is a propensity to
thieving; to which we found those of all ages, and both sexes,
addicted, and to an uncommon degree. It should, however, be
considered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct seemed to
exist merely with respect to us; for, in their general intercourse
with one another, I had reason to be of opinion, that thefts do not
happen more frequently (perhaps less so) than in other countries, the
dishonest practices of whose worthless individuals are not supposed to
authorize any indiscriminate censure on the whole body of the people.
Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives
of the Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the glare of
objects, equally new to them as they were captivating. Stealing, among
the civilized nations of the world, may well be considered as denoting
a character deeply stained with moral turpitude: with avarice,
unrestrained by the known rules of right; and with profligacy,
producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it.
But at the Friendly and other islands which we visited, the thefts, so
frequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along with
us, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They seemed to
arise solely from an intense curiosity or desire to possess something
which they had not been accustomed to before, and belonging to a sort
of people so different from themselves. And, perhaps, if it were
possible, that a set of beings, seemingly, as superior in our
judgment, as we are in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might be
doubted, whether our natural regard to justice would be able to
restrain many from falling into the same error. That I have assigned
the true motive for their propensity to this practice, appears from
their stealing every thing indiscriminately at first sight, before
they could have the least conception of converting their prize to any
one useful purpose. But, I believe, with us, no person would forfeit
his reputation, or expose himself to punishment, without knowing,
beforehand, how to employ the stolen goods. Upon the whole, the
pilfering disposition of these islanders, though certainly
disagreeable and troublesome to strangers, was the means of affording
us some information as to the quickness of their intellects.'
With respect to the religion of these Indians, Mr. Anderson maintains,
that they have very proper sentiments concerning the immateriality and
immortality of the soul; and thinks himself sufficiently authorized to
assert, that they do not worship any thing which is the work of their
own hands, or any visible part of the creation. The language of the
Friendly Islands has the greatest imaginable conformity with that of
New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea. Several hundreds of the words of
it were collected by Mr. Anderson; and amongst these, are terms that
express numbers reaching to a hundred thousand. Beyond this limit they
never went, and probably were not able to go farther; for it was
observed, that when they had gotten thus far, they commonly used a
word which expresses an indefinite number.
On the 17th of July, our commander took his final leave of the
Friendly Islands, and resumed his voyage. An eclipse was observed in
the night between the 20th and the 21st; and on the 8th of August land
was discovered. Some of the inhabitants, who came off in canoes,
seemed earnestly to invite our people to go on shore; but Captain Cook
did not think proper to run the risk of losing the advantage of a fair
wind, for the sake of examining an island which appeared to be of
little consequence. Its name, as was learned from the natives, who
spake the Otaheite language, is Toobonai.
Pursuing his course, the captain reached Otaheite on the 12th, and
steered for Oheitepeha Bay, with an intention to anchor there, in
order to draw what refreshments he could from the south-east part of
the island, before he went down to Matavai. Omai's first reception
amongst his countrymen was not entirely of a flattering nature. Though
several persons came on board who knew him, and one of them was his
brother-in-law, there was nothing remarkably tender or striking in
their meeting. An interview which Omai had, on the 13th, with his
sister, was agreeable to the feelings of nature; for their meeting was
marked with expressions of tender affection, more easy to be conceived
than described. In a visit, likewise, which he received from an aunt,
the old lady threw herself at his feet, and plentifully bedewed them
with tears of joy.
Captain Cook was informed by the natives, that, since he was last at
the island, in 1774, two ships had been twice in Oheitepeha Bay, and
had left animals in the country. These, on farther inquiry, were found
to be hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and a ram. That the vessels which
had visited Otaheite were Spanish, was plain from an inscription that
was cut upon a wooden cross, standing at some distance from the front
of a house which had been occupied by the strangers. On the transverse
part of the cross was inscribed,
_Christus vincit._
And on the perpendicular part,
_Carolus III. imperat. 1774._
Our commander took this occasion to preserve the memory of the prior
visits of the English, by inscribing, on the other side of the post,
_Georgius tertius Rex.
Annis 1767,
1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777._
Whatever might be the intentions of the Spaniards in their visit to
the island, it ought to be remembered to their honour, that they
behaved so well to the inhabitants, as always to be spoken of in the
strongest expressions of esteem and veneration.
Captain Cook had at this time an important affair to settle. As he
knew that he could now be furnished with a plentiful supply of
cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an excellent and wholesome
beverage, he was desirous of prevailing upon his people to consent to
their being abridged, during their stay at Otaheite and the
neighbouring islands, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with
water. But as this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning
some reason for it, might occasion a general murmur, he thought it
most prudent to assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them
the design of the voyage, and the extent of the future operations. To
animate them in undertaking with cheerfulness and perseverance what
lay before them he took notice of the rewards offered by parliament,
to such of his majesty's subjects as should first discover a
communication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, in any
direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and also to such as
should first penetrate beyond the eighty-ninth degree of northern
latitude. The captain made no doubt, he told them, that he should find
them willing to co-operate with him in attempting as far as might be
possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that,
to give the best chance of success, it would be necessary to observe
the utmost economy in the expenditure of the stores and provisions,
particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting a
supply any where, after leaving these islands. He strengthened his
argument by reminding them, that, in consequence of the opportunity's
having been lost of getting to the north this summer, the voyage must
last at least a year longer than had originally been supposed. He
entreated them to consider the various obstructions and difficulties
they might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships they would
endure, if it should be found necessary to put them to short
allowance, of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. For these
very substantial reasons, he submitted to them, whether it would not
be better to be prudent in time, and, rather than to incur the hazard
of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would most be wanted,
to consent to give up their grog now, when so excellent a liquor as
that of cocoa-nuts could be substituted in its place. In conclusion,
our commander left the determination of the matter entirely to their
own choice.
This speech which certainly partook much of the nature of true
eloquence, if a discourse admirably calculated for persuasion be
entitled to that character, produced its full effect on the generous
minds of English seamen. Captain Cook had the satisfaction of finding
that his proposal did not remain a single moment under consideration;
being unanimously and immediately approved of, without the least
objection. By our commander's order, Captain Clerke made the same
proposal to his people, to which they, likewise, agreed. Accordingly,
grog was no longer served, excepting on Saturday nights; when the
companies of both ships had a full allowance of it, that they might
drink the healths of their friends in England.
On the 24th, Captain Cook quitted the south-east part of Otaheite, and
resumed his old station in Matavia Bay. Immediately upon his arrival,
he was visited by Otoo, the king of the whole island, and their former
friendship was renewed; a friendship which was continued without
interruption, and cemented by a perpetual succession of civilities,
good offices, and entertainments. One of our commander's first objects
was to dispose of all the European animals which were in the ships.
Accordingly, he conveyed to Oparre, Otoo's place of residence, a
peacock and hen; a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, a
drake and four ducks. The geese and ducks began to breed before our
navigators left their present station. There were already, at Otoo's,
several goats, and the Spanish bull; which was one of the finest
animals of the kind that was ever seen. To the bull Captain Cook sent
the three cows he had on board, together with a bull of his own; to
all which were added the horse and mare, and the sheep that had still
remained in the vessels.
The captain found himself lightened of a very heavy burden, in having
disposed of these passengers. It is not easy to conceive the trouble
and vexation, which had attended the conveyance of this living cargo,
through such various hazards, and to so immense a distance. But the
satisfaction which our commander felt, in having been so fortunate as
to fulfil his majesty's humane designs, in sending such valuable
animals, to supply the wants of the two worthy nations, afforded him
an ample recompense for the many anxious hours he had passed, before
this subordinate object of his voyage could be carried into execution.
At this time a war was on the point of breaking out, between the
inhabitants of Eimeo and those of Otaheite; and by the latter Captain
Cook was requested to take a part in their favour. With this request,
however, though enforced by frequent and urgent solicitations, the
captain, according to his usual wisdom, refused to comply. He alleged,
that, as he was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and the
people of Eimeo had never offended him, he could not think himself at
liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With these reasons Otoo
and most of the chiefs appeared to be satisfied; but one of them,
Towha, was so highly displeased, that our commander never afterward
recovered his friendship.
Upon the present occasion, Captain Cook had full and undeniable proof,
that the offering of human sacrifices forms a part of the religious
institutions of Otaheite. Indeed, he was a witness to a solemnity of
this kind; the process of which he has particularly described, and has
related it with the just sentiments of indignation and abhorrence. The
unhappy victim, who was now offered to the object of worship, seemed
to be a middle-aged man, and was said to be one of the lowest class of
the people. But the captain could not learn, after all his inquiries,
whether the wretch had been fixed upon on account of his having
committed any crime which was supposed to be deserving of death. It is
certain, that a choice is generally, made either of such guilty
persons for the sacrifices, or of common low fellows, who stroll about
from place to place, without any visible methods of obtaining an
honest subsistence. Those who are devoted to suffer, are never
apprised of their fate, till the blow is given, that puts an end to
their being. Whenever, upon any particular emergency, one of the great
chiefs considers a human sacrifice to be necessary, he pitches upon
the victim, and then orders him to be suddenly fallen upon and killed,
either with clubs or stones. Although it should be supposed, that no
more than one person is ever devoted to destruction on any single
occasion, at Otaheite, it will still be found that these occurrences
are so frequent, as to cause a shocking waste of the human race; for
our commander counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former
victims, lying before the Morai, where he had seen another added to
the number. It was apparent, from the freshness of these skulls, that
no great length of time had elapsed since the wretches to whom they
belonged had been offered upon the altar of blood.
There is reason to fear, that this custom is as extensive as it is
horrid. It is highly probable that it prevails throughout the widely
diffused islands of the Pacific Ocean; and Captain Cook had particular
evidence of its subsisting at the Friendly Islands. To what an extent
the practice of human sacrifices was carried in the ancient world, is
not unknown to the learned. Scarcely any nation was free from it in a
certain state of society; and, as religious reformation is one of the
last efforts of the human mind, the practice may be continued, even
when the manners are otherwise far removed from savage life. It may
have been a long time before civilization has made such a progress as
to deprive superstition of its cruelty, and to divert it from
barbarous rites to ceremonies which, though foolish enough, are
comparatively mild, gentle and innocent.
On the 5th of September, an accident happened, which, though slight in
itself, was of some consequence from the situation of things. A young
ram of the Cape breed, which had been lambed and brought up with great
care on board the ship, as killed by a dog. Desirous as Captain Cook
was of propagating so useful a race among the Society Islands, the
loss of a ram was a serious misfortune. It was the only one he had of
that breed; and of the English breed a single ram was all that
remained.
Captain Cook and Captain Clerke, on the 14th, mounted on horseback,
and took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the great surprise of a
large number of the natives, who attended upon the occasion, and gazed
upon the gentlemen with as much astonishment as if they bad been
Centaurs. What the two captains had begun was afterward repeated every
day, by one and another of our people; notwithstanding which, the
curiosity of the Otaheitans still continued unabated. They were
exceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the use
which was made of them. Not all the novelties put together, which
European visitors had carried amongst the inhabitants, inspired them
with so high an idea of the greatness of distant nations.
Though Captain Cook would not take a part in the quarrels between the
islands, he was ready to protect his particular friends, when in
danger of being injured. Towha, who commanded the expedition against
Eimeo, had been obliged to submit to a disgraceful accommodation.
Being full of resentment, on account of his not having been properly
supported, he was said to have threatened, that, as soon as the
captain should leave the island, he would join his forces to those of
Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo, at Matavai or Oparre. This induced our
commander to declare, in the most public manner, that he was
determined to espouse the interest of his friend, against any such
combination; and that, whoever presumed to assault him, should feel
the weight of his heavy displeasure, when he returned again to
Otaheite. Captain Cook's declaration had probably the desired effect;
for, if Towha had formed hostile intentions, no more was heard of the
matter.
The manner in which our commander was freed from a rheumatic
complaint, that consisted of a pain extending from the hip to the
foot, deserves to be recorded. Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and
eight other women went on board, for the express purpose of
undertaking the cure of his disorder. He accepted of their friendly
offer, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted
himself to their directions. Being desired to lay himself down amongst
them, then, as many of them as could get round him began to squeeze
him with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly in the
part where the pain was lodged till they made his bones crack, and his
flesh became a perfect mummy. After undergoing this discipline about a
quarter of an hour, he was glad to be released from the women. The
operation, however gave him immediate relief; so that he was
encouraged to submit to another rubbing down before he went to bed;
the consequence of which was, that he was tolerably easy all the
succeeding night. His female physicians repeated their prescription
the next morning, and again in the evening; after which his pains were
entirely removed, and the cure was perfected. This operation, which is
called _romee_, is universally practised among these islanders;
being sometimes, performed by the men, but more generally by the
women.
Captain Cook, who now had come to the resolution of departing soon
from Otaheite, accompanied, on the 27th, Otoo to Oparre, and examined
the cattle and poultry, which he had consigned to his friend's care at
that place. Everything was in a promising way, and properly attended.
The captain procured from Otoo four goats; two of which he designed to
leave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced; and the other
two he proposed to reserve for the use of any islands he might chance
to meet with in his passage to the north. On the next day, Oleo came
on board, and informed our commander that he had gotten a canoe, which
he desired him to carry home, as a present to the Earee rahie no
Pretane. This, he said, was the only thing he could send which was
worthy of his majesty's, acceptance. Captain Cook was not a little
pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude; and the more, as
the thought was entirely his own. Not one of our people had given him
the least hint concerning it; and it shewed, that he was fully
sensible to whom he stood indebted for the most valueable presents
that he had received. As the canoe was too large to be taken on board,
the captain could only thank him for his good intentions; but it would
have given him a much greater satisfaction, if his present could have
been accepted.
During this visit of our voyagers to Otaheite, such a cordial
friendship and confidence subsisted between them and the natives, as
never once to be interrupted by any untoward accident. Our commander
had made the chiefs fully sensible, that it was their interest to
treat with him on fair and equitable terms, and to keep their people
from plundering or stealing. So great was Otoo's attachment to the
English, that he seemed pleased with the idea of their having a
permanent settlement at Matavai; not considering, that from that time
he would be deprived of his kingdom, and the inhabitants of their
liberties. Captain Cook had too much gratitude and regard for these
islanders, to wish that such an event should ever take place. Though
our occasional visits may, in some respects, have been of advantage to
the natives, he was afraid that a durable establishment among them,
conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations have
unfortunately been, would give them just cause to lament that they had
been discovered by our navigators. It is not, indeed, likely that a
measure of this kind should at any time seriously be adopted, because
it cannot serve either the, purposes of public ambition, or private
avarice; and, without such inducements, the captain has ventured to
pronounce that it will never be undertaken.
From Otaheite our voyagers sailed, on the 30th, to Eimeo, where they
came to an anchor on the same day. At this island the transactions
which happened were, for the most part, very unpleasant. A goat, which
was stolen, was recovered without any extraordinary difficulty, and
one of the thieves was, at the same time, surrendered; being the first
instance of the kind that our commander had met with in his connexions
with the Society Islands. The stealing of another goat was attended
with an uncommon degree of perplexity and trouble. As the recovery of
it was a matter of no small importance, Captain Cook was determined to
effect this at any rate; and accordingly he made an expedition across
the island, in the course of which he set fire to six or eight houses,
and burned a number of war canoes. At last, in consequence of a
peremptory message to Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, that not a single
canoe should be left in the country, or an end be put to the contest,
unless the animal in his possession should be restored, the goat was
brought back. This quarrel was as much regretted on the part of the
captain, as it could be on that of the natives. It grieved him to
reflect, that, after refusing the pressing solicitations of his
friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of this island, he should
find himself so speedily reduced to the necessity of engaging, in
hostilities against its inhabitants; and in such hostilities as,
perhaps, had been more injurious to them than Towha's expedition.
On the 11th of October, the ships departed from Eimeo, and the next
day arrived at Owharre harbour, on the west side of Huaheine. The
grand business of our commander at this island was the settlement of
Omai. In order to obtain the consent of the chiefs of the island, the
affair was conducted with great solemnity. Omai dressed himself very
properly on the occasion; brought with him a suitable assortment of
presents; went through a variety of religious ceremonies; and made a
speech, the topics of which had been dictated to him by our commander.
The result of the negotiation was, that a spot of ground was assigned
him, the extent of which, along the shore of the harbour was about two
hundred yards; and its depth to the foot of the hill somewhat more. A
proportionable part of the hill was included in the grant. This
business having been adjusted in a satisfactory manner, the carpenters
of both ships were employed in building a small house for Omai, in
which he might secure his European commodities. At the same time, some
of the English made a garden for his use, in which they planted
shaddocks, vines, pineapples, melons, and the seeds of several other
vegetable articles. All of these Captain Cook bad the satisfaction of
seeing in a flourishing state before he left the island.
At Huaheine, Omai found a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law, by
whom he was received with great regard and tenderness. But though
these people were faithful and affectionate in their attachment to
him, the captain discovered, with concern, that they were of too
little consequence in the island to be capable of rendering him any
positive service. They had not either authority or influence to
protect his person or property; and, in such a situation, there was
reason to apprehend, that he might be in danger of being stripped of
all his possessions, as soon as he should cease to be supported by the
power of the English. To prevent this evil, if possible, our commander
advised him to conciliate the favour and engage the patronage and
protection of two or three of the principal chiefs, by a proper
distribution of some of his moveables; with which advice he prudently
complied. Captain Cook, however, did not entirely trust to the
operations of gratitude, but had recourse to the more forcible motive
of intimidation. With this view, he took every opportunity of
signifying to the inhabitants, that it was his intention to return to
the island again, after being absent the usual time; and that, if he
did not find Omai in the same state of security in which he left him,
all those whom he should then discover to have been his enemies should
feel the weight of his resentment. As the natives had now formed an
opinion that their country would be visited by the ships of England at
stated periods, there was ground to hope, that this threatening
declaration would produce no inconsiderable effect.
When Omai's house was nearly finished, and many of his moveables were
carried ashore, a box of toys excited the admiration of the multitude
in a much higher degree than articles of a more useful nature. With
regard to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, glasses,
and the whole train of domestic accommodations, which in our
estimation are so necessary and important, scarcely any one of his
countrymen would condescend to look upon them. Omai himself, being
sensible that these pieces of English furniture would be of no great
consequence in his present situation, wisely sold a number of them,
among the people of the ships, for hatchets, and other iron tools,
which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and would
give him a more distinguished superiority over those with whom he was
to pass the remainder of his days.
Omai's family, when he settled at Huaheine, consisted of eight or ten
persons, if that can be called a family to which a single female did
not as yet belong, nor was likely to belong, unless its master should
become less volatile. There was nothing in his present temper which
seemed likely to dispose him to look out for a wife; and, perhaps, it
is to be apprehended, that his residence in England had not
contributed to improve his taste for the sober felicity of a domestic
union with some woman of his own country.
The European weapons of Omai consisted of a musket, bayonet, and
carteuch box; a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three
swords or cutlasses. With the possession of these warlike implements,
he was highly delighted; and it was only to gratify his eager desire
for them that Captain Cook was induced to make him such presents. The
captain would otherwise have thought it happier for him to be without
fire-arms, or any European weapons, lest an imprudent use of them (and
prudence was not his most distinguished talent) should rather increase
his dangers than establish his superiority. Though it was no small
satisfaction to our commander to reflect, that he had brought Omai
safe back to the very spot from which he had been taken, this
satisfaction was, nevertheless, somewhat diminished by the
consideration, that his situation might now be less desirable than it
was before his connexion with the English. It was to be feared, that
the advantages which he had derived from his visit to England would
place him in a more hazardous state, with respect to his personal
safety.
Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were overbalanced
by his good nature and his gratitude. He had a tolerable share of
understanding, but it was not accompanied with application and
perseverance; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and in
most instances imperfect: nor was he a man of much observation. He
would not, therefore, be able to introduce many of the arts and
customs of England among his countrymen, or greatly to improve those
to which they have long been habituated. Captain Cook, however, was
confident, that he would endeavour to bring to perfection the fruits
and vegetables which had been planted in his garden. This of itself
would be no small acquisition to the natives. But the greatest benefit
which these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels, will be
in the animals that are left upon them; and which, had it not been for
his coming to England, they might probably never have obtained. When
these multiply, of which Captain Cook thought there was little reason
to doubt, Otaheite and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed,
any country in the known world, for plenty of provisions.
Before our commander sailed from Huaheine, he had the following
inscription cut on the outside of Omai's house:
_Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777.
{ Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.
Naves {
{ Discovery, Car. Clerk, Pr._
On the same day, Omai took his final leave of our navigators, in doing
which, he bade farewell to all the officers in a very affectionate
manner. He sustained himself with a manly resolution, till he came to
Captain Cook, when his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed; and
he continued to weep all the time that the boat was conveying him to
shore. Not again to resume the subject I shall here mention, that when
the captain was at Ulietea, a fortnight after this event, Omai sent
two men with the satisfactory intelligence, that he remained
undisturbed by the people of Huaheine, and that every thing succeeded
well with him, excepting in the loss of his goat, which had died in
kidding. This intelligence was accompanied with a request, that
another goat might be given him, together with two axes. Our
commander, esteeming himself happy in having an additional opportunity
of serving him, dispatched the messengers back with the axes and a
couple of kids, male and female, which were spared for him out of the
Discovery.
The fate of the two youths, who had been brought from New Zealand,
must not be forgotten. As they were extremely desirous of continuing
with our people, Captain Cook would have carried them to England with
him, if there had appeared the most distant probability of their ever
being restored to their own country. Tiarooa, the eldest of them, was
a very well disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and a
capacity of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully convinced
of the inferiority of New Zealand to these islands, and resigned
himself, though not without some degree of reluctance, to end his
days, in ease and plenty, in Huaheine. The other had formed so strong
an attachment to our navigators, that it was necessary to take him out
of the ship, and carry him ashore by force. This necessity was the
more painful as he was a witty, smart boy: and, on that account, a
great favourite on board. Both these youths became a part of Omai's
family.
Whilst our voyagers were at Huaheine, the atrocious conduct of one
particular thief occasioned so much trouble, that the captain punished
him more severely than he had ever done any culprit before. Besides
having his head and beard shaved, he ordered both his ears to be cut
off, and then dismissed him. It can scarcely be reflected upon without
regret, that our commander should have been compelled to such an act
of severity.
On the 3rd of November, the ships came to an anchor in the harbour of
Ohamaneno, in the island of Ulietea. The observatories being set up on
the 6th, and the necessary instruments having been carried on shore,
the two following days were employed in making astronomical
observations. In the night between the 12th and 13th, John Harrison, a
marine, who was sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with him
his arms and accoutrements. Captain Cook exerted himself on this
occasion, with his usual vigour. He went himself in pursuit of the
deserter, who, after some evasion on the part of the inhabitants, was
surrendered. He was found sitting between two women, with the musket
lying before him; and all the defence he was able to make was, that he
had been enticed away by the natives. As this account was probably the
truth, and as it appeared besides, that he had remained upon his post
till within ten minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved,
the punishment which the captain inflicted upon him was not very
severe.
Some days after, a still more troublesome affair happened, of the same
nature. On the morning of the 24th, the captain was informed that a
midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were
missing; and it soon appeared, that they had gone away in a canoe in
the preceding evening, and had now reached the other end of the
island. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire of
remaining at these islands, it was evident, that he and his companion
had gone off with that intention. Though Captain Clerke immediately
set out in quest of them with two armed boats, and a party of marines,
his expedition proved fruitless, the natives having amused him the
whole day with false intelligence. The next morning an account was
brought that the deserters were at Otaha. As they were not the only
persons in the ships who wished to spend their days at these favourite
islands, it became necessary for the purpose of preventing any farther
desertion, to recover them at all events. Captain Cook, therefore, in
order to convince the inhabitants that he was in earnest, resolved to
go after the fugitives himself; to which measure he was determined,
from having observed, in repeated instances, that the natives had
seldom offered to deceive him with false information.
Agreeably to this resolution, the captain set out, the next morning,
with two armed boats, being accompanied by Oree, the chief of Ulietea,
and proceeded immediately to Otaha. But when he had gotten to the
place where the deserters were expected to be found, he was acquainted
that they were gone over to Bolabola. Thither our commander did not
think proper to follow them having determined to pursue another
measure, which he judged would more effectually answer his purpose.
This measure was to put the chief's son, daughter, and son-in-law,
into confinement, and to detain them till the fugitives should be
restored. As to Oree, he was informed, that he was at liberty to leave
the ship whenever he pleased, and to take such methods as he esteemed
best calculated to get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, his
friends should be released; if not, that Captain Cook was resolved to
carry them away with him. The captain added, that the chief's own
conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in assisting the
runaways to escape, and in enticing others to follow them, would
justify any step that could be taken to put a stop to such
proceedings. In consequence of this explanation of our commander's
views and intentions, Oree zealously exerted himself to recover the
deserters, for which purpose he dispatched a canoe to Bolabola, with a
message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, acquainting him with
what had happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives and
send them back. The messenger, who was no less a person than the
father of Pootoe, Oree's son-in-law, came, before he set out, to
Captain Cook, to receive his commands; which were, not to return
without the runaways, and to inform Opoony, that, if they had left
Bolabola, he must dispatch canoes in pursuit of them, till they should
finally be restored. These vigorous measures were, at length,
successful. On the 28th the deserters were brought back; and, as soon
as they were on board, the three prisoners were released. Our
commander would not have acted so resolutely on the present occasion,
had he not been peculiarly solicitous to save the son of a brother
officer from being lost to his country.
While this affair was in suspense, some of the natives, from their
anxiety on account of the confinement of the chief's relations, had
formed a design of a very serious nature; which was no less than to
seize upon the persons of Captain Clerke and Captain Cook. With regard
to Captain Clerke, they made no secret of speaking of their scheme,
the day after it was discovered. But their first and grand plan of
operations was to lay hold of Captain Cook. It was his custom to
bathe, every evening, in fresh water; in doing which he frequently
went alone, and always without arms. As the inhabitants expected him
to go, as usual, on the evening of the 26th, they had determined at
that time to make him a prisoner. But he had thought it prudent, after
confining Oree's family, to avoid putting himself in their power; and
had cautioned Captain Clerke, and the officers, not to venture
themselves far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon, the
chief asked Captain Cook, three several times, if he would not go to
the bathing-place; and when he found, at last, that the captain could
not be prevailed upon, he went off, with all his people. He was
apprehensive, without doubt, that the design was discovered; though no
suspicion of it was then entertained by our commander, who imagined,
that the natives were seized with some sudden fright, from which, as
usual, they would quickly recover. On one occasion, Captain Clerke and
Mr. Gore were in particular danger. A party of the inhabitants, armed
with clubs, advanced against them; and their safety was principally
owing to Captain Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he
once fired. The discovery of the conspiracy, especially so far as
respected Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, was made by a girl, whom one of
the officers had brought from Huaheine. On this account, those who
were charged with the execution of the design were so greatly offended
with her, that they threatened to take away her life, as soon as our
navigators should leave the island: but proper methods were pursued
for her security. It was a happy circumstance that the affair was
brought to light; since such a scheme could not have been carried into
effect, without being, in its consequences, productive of much
distress and calamity to the natives.
Whilst Captain Cook was at Ulietea, he was visited by his old friend
Oree, who, in the former voyages, was chief, or rather regent, of
Huaheine. Notwithstanding his now being, in some degree, reduced to
the rank of a private person he still preserved his consequence; never
appeared without a numerous body of attendants; and was always
provided with such presents, as indicated his wealth, and were highly
acceptable.
The last of the Society Islands to which our commander sailed was
Bolabola, where he arrived on the 8th of December. His chief view in
passing over to this island was to procure from its monarch, Opoony,
an anchor which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite, and
which had been conveyed to Bolabola. It was not from a want of anchors
that Captain Cook was desirous of making the purchase, but to convert
the iron of which it consisted into a fresh assortment of trading
articles, these being now very much exhausted. The captain succeeded
in his negotiation, and amply rewarded Opoony for giving up the
anchor.
Whilst our commander was at Bolabola, he received an account of those
military expeditions of the people of this country, which he had heard
much of in each of his three voyages, and which had ended in the
complete conquest of Ulietea and Otaha. The Bolabola men, in
consequence of these enterprises, where in the highest reputation for
their valour; and, indeed, were deemed so invincible, as to be the
objects of terror to all the neighbouring islands. It was an addition
to their fame, that their country was of such small extent, being not
more than eight leagues in compass, and not half so large as Ulietea.
Captain Cook continued to the last his zeal for furnishing the natives
of the South Sea with useful animals. At Bolabola, where there was
already a ram, which had originally been left by the Spaniards at
Otaheite, he carried ashore an ewe, that had been brought from the
Cape of Good Hope; and he rejoiced in the prospect of laying a
foundation, by this present, for a breed of sheep in the island. He
left also at Ulietea, under the care of Oree, an English boar and sow,
and two goats. It may, therefore, be regarded as certain, that not
only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands, will, in a few years,
have their race of hogs considerably improved; and it is probable,
that they will be stocked with all the valuable animals, which have
been transported thither by their European visitors. When this shall
be accomplished, no part of the world will equal these islands, in the
variety and abundance of the refreshments which they will be able to
afford to navigators; nor did the captain know any place that excelled
them, even in their present state.
It is an observation of great importance, that the future felicity of
the inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society Islands, will not a
little depend on their continuing to be visited from Europe. Our
commander could not avoid expressing it as his real opinion, that it
would have been far better for these poor people, never to have known
our superiority in the accommodations and arts which render life
comfortable, than after once knowing it, to be again left and
abandoned to their original incapacity of improvement. If the
intercourse between them and us should wholly be discontinued, they
cannot be restored to that happy mediocrity, in which they lived
before they were first discovered. It seemed to Captain Cook, that it
was become, in a manner, incumbent upon the Europeans to visit these
islands once in three or four years, in order to supply the natives
with those conveniences which we have introduced among them, and for
which we have given them a predilection. Perhaps they may heavily feel
the want of such occasional supplies, when it may be too late to go
back to their old and less perfect contrivances; contrivances which
they now despise, and which they have discontinued since the
introduction of ours. It is, indeed, to be apprehended, that by the
time that the iron tools, of which they had become possessed, are worn
out, they will have almost lost the knowledge of their own. In this
last voyage of our commander, a stone hatchet was as rare a thing
among the inhabitants as an iron one was eight years before; and a
chisel of bone or stone was not to be seen. Spike nails had succeeded
in their place; and of spike nails the natives were weak enough to
imagine that they had gotten an inexhaustible store. Of all our
commodities, axes, and hatchets remained the most unrivalled; and they
must ever be held in the highest estimation through the whole of the
islands. Iron tools are so strikingly useful, and are now become so
necessary to the comfortable existence of the inhabitants, that,
should they cease to receive supplies of them, their situation, in
consequence of their neither possessing the materials, nor being
trained up to the art of fabricating them, would be rendered
completely miserable. It is impossible to reflect upon this
representation of things without strong feelings of sympathy and
concern. Sincerely is it to be wished, that such may be the order of
events, and such the intercourse carried on with the southern
islanders, that, instead of finally suffering by their acquaintance
with us, they may rise to a higher state of civilization, and
permanently enjoy blessings far superior to what they had heretofore
known.
Amidst the various subordinate employments which engaged the attention
of Captain Cook and his associates, the great objects of their duty
were never forgotten. No opportunity was lost of making astronomical
and nautical observations; the consequence of which was, that the
latitude and longitude of the places where the ships anchored, the
variations of the compass, the dips of the needle, and the state of
the tides, were ascertained with an accuracy that forms a valuable
addition to philosophical science, and will be of eminent service to
future navigators.
Our commander was now going to take his final departure from Otaheite
and the Society Islands. Frequently as they had been visited, it might
have been imagined, that their religious, political, and domestic
regulations, manners and customs, must, by this time, be thoroughly
understood. A great accession of knowledge was undoubtedly gained in
the present voyage; and yet it was confessed, both by Captain Cook and
Mr. Anderson, that their accounts of things were still imperfect in
various respects; and that they continued strangers to many of the
most important institutions which prevail among the natives. There was
one part of the character of several of these people, on which the
well regulated mind of the captain would not permit him to enlarge.
'Too much,' says he, 'seems to have been already known, and published
in our former relations, about some of the modes of life, that made
Otaheite, so agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and if I
could now add any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of
which have been already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still
have hesitated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of
licentious manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose
information I write.
From Mr. Anderson's account of the Otaheitans, it appears, that their
religious system is extensive, and, in various instances, singular.
They do not seem to pay respect to one God as possessing pre-eminence,
but believe in a plurality of divinities, all of whom are supposed to
be very powerful. In different parts of the island, and in the
neighbouring islands, the inhabitants choose those deities for the
objects of their worship, who, they think, are most likely to protect
them, and to supply all their wants. If, however, they are
disappointed in their expectations, they deem it no impiety to change
their divinity, by having recourse to another, whom they hope to find
more propitious and successful. In general, their notions concerning
Deity are extravagantly absurd. With regard to the soul, they believe
it, according to Mr. Anderson, to be both immaterial and immortal; but
he acknowledges, that they are far from entertaining those sublime
expectations of future happiness which the Christian revelation
affords, and which even reason alone, duly exercised might teach us to
expect.
Although seventeen months had elapsed since Captain Cook's departure
from England, during which time he had not, upon the whole, been
unprofitably employed, he was sensible that, with respect to the
principal object of his instructions, it was now only the commencement
of his voyage and that, therefore, his attention was to be called anew
to every circumstance which might contribute towards the safety of his
people, and the ultimate success of the expedition. Accordingly, he
had examined into the state of the provisions, whilst he was at the
Society Islands, and, as soon as he had left them, and had gotten
beyond the extent of his former discoveries, he ordered a survey to be
taken of all the boatswain's and carpenters stores which were in the
ships, that he might be fully informed of their quantity and
condition; and, by that means, know how to use them to the greatest
advantage.
It was on the 8th of December, the very day on which he had touched
there, that our commander sailed from Bolabola. In the night between
the 22nd and 23rd, he crossed the line, in the longitude of 203 15'
east; and on the 24th land was discovered, which was found to be one
of those low uninhabited islands, that are so frequent in this ocean.
Here our voyagers were successful in catching a large quantity of
turtle, which supplied them with an agreeable refreshment; and here,
on the 28th, an eclipse of the sun was observed by Mr. Bayley, Mr.
King, and Captain Cook. On account of the season of the year, the
captain called the land where he now was, and which he judged to be
about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, Christmas Island. By
his order, several cocoa-nuts and yams were planted, and some melon
seeds sown in proper places; and a bottle was left, containing this
inscription:
_Georgius Tertius, Rex. 31 Decembris, 1777.
{ Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.
Naves {
{ Discovery. Car. Clerke, Pr._
On the 2nd of January, 1778, the ships resumed their course to the
northward, and though several evidences occurred of the vicinity of
land, none was discovered till the 18th, when an island made its
appearance, bearing north-east by east. Soon after, more land was
seen, lying towards the north, and entirely detached from the former.
The succeeding day was distinguished by the discovery of a third
island in the direction of west-north-west, and as far distant as the
eye could reach. In steering towards the second island, our voyagers
had some doubt whether the land before them was inhabited; but this
matter was speedily cleared up, by the putting off of some canoes from
the shore, containing from three to six men each. Upon their approach,
the English were agreeably surprised to find, that they spoke the
language of Otaheite, and of the other countries which had lately been
visited. These people were at first fearful of going on board; but
when, on the 20th, some of them took courage, and ventured to do it,
they expressed an astonishment, on entering the ship, which Captain
Cook had never experienced in the natives of any place during the
whole course of his several voyages. Their eyes continually flew from
object to object; and, by the wildness of their looks and gestures,
they fully manifested their entire ignorance with relation to every
thing they saw, and strongly marked to our navigators, that, till this
time, they had never been visited by Europeans, or been acquainted
with any of our commodities, excepting iron. Even with respect to
iron, it was evident that they had only heard of it, or at most, had
known it in some small quantity, brought to them at a distant period;
for all they understood concerning it was, that it was a substance
much better adapted to the purpose of cutting, or boring of holes,
than any thing their own country produced. Their ceremonies on
entering the ship, their gestures and motions, and their manner of
singing, were similar to those which our voyagers had been accustomed
to see in the places lately visited. There was, likewise, a farther
circumstance in which these people perfectly resembled the other
islanders: and that was, in their endeavouring to steal whatever came
within their reach; or rather to take it openly, as what would either
not be resented or not hindered. The English soon convinced them of
their mistake, by keeping such a watchful eye over them that they
afterwards were obliged to be less active in appropriating to
themselves every object that struck upon their fancy and excited the
desire of possession.
One order given by Captain Cook at this island was that none of the
boats' crews should be permitted to go on shore; the reason of which
was, that he might do every thing in his power to prevent the
importation of a fatal disease, which unhappily had already been
communicated in other places. With the same view, he directed that all
female visitors should be excluded from the ships. Another necessary
precaution, taken by the captain, was a strict injunction, that no
person known to be capable of propagating disorder should be sent upon
duty out of the vessels. Thus zealous was the humanity of our
commander, to prevent an irreparable injury from being done to the
natives. There are men who glory in their shame, and who do not care
how much evil they communicate. Of this there was an instance at
Tongataboo, in the gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on
shore to manage the trade for that ship; and who, though he was well
acquainted with his own situation, continued to have connexions with
different women. His companions expostulated with him without effect,
till Captain Clerke, hearing of the dangerous irregularity of his
conduct ordered him on board. If I knew the rascal's name, I would
hang it up, as far as lies in my power, to everlasting infamy.
Mr. Williamson being sent with the boats to search for water, and
attempting to land, the inhabitants came down in such numbers, and
were so violent in their endeavours to seize upon the oars, muskets,
and, in short, every thing they could lay hold of, that he was obliged
to fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circumstance was
not known to Captain Cook till after he had left the island; so that
all his measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened.
When the ships were brought to an anchor, our commander went on shore;
and, at the very instant of his doing it, the collected body of the
natives all fell flat upon their faces, and continued in that humble
posture, till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise.
Other ceremonies followed; and the next day a trade was set on foot
for hogs and potatoes, which the people of the island gave in exchange
for nails and pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. So
far was any obstruction from being met with in watering, that, on the
contrary, the inhabitants assisted our men in rolling the casks to and
from the pool; and readily performed whatever was required.
Affairs thus going on to the captain's satisfaction, he made an
excursion into the country, accompanied by Mr. Anderson and Mr.
Webber, the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the
pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, whatever might
occur worthy of observation. In this excursion, the gentlemen, among
other objects that called for their attention, found a _Morai_.
On the return of our commander, he had the pleasure of finding that a
brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots was carrying on with the
greatest good order, and without any attempt to cheat, or steal, on
the part of the natives. The rapacious disposition they at first
displayed was entirely corrected by their conviction that it could not
be exercised with impunity. Among the articles which they brought to
barter, the most remarkable was a particular sort of cloak and cap,
that might be reckoned elegant, even in countries where dress is
eminently the object of attention. The cloak was richly adorned with
red and yellow feathers, which in themselves were highly beautiful,
and the newness and freshness of which added not a little to their
beauty.
On the 22nd, a circumstance occurred, which gave the English room to
suspect that the people of the island are eaters of human flesh. Not,
however, to rest the belief of the existence of so horrid a practice
on the foundation of suspicion only, Captain Cook was anxious to
inquire into the truth of the fact, the result of which was its being
fully confirmed. An old man, in particular, who was asked upon the
subject, answered in the affirmative, and seemed to laugh at the
simplicity of such a question. His answer was equally affirmative on a
repetition of the inquiry; and he added, that the flesh of men was
excellent food, or, as he expressed it, "savoury eating". It is
understood that enemies slain in battle are the sole objects of this
abominable custom.
The island, at which our voyagers had now touched, was called Atooi by
the natives. Near it was another island, named Oneeheow, where our
commander came to an anchor on the 29th of the month. The inhabitants
were found to resemble those of Atooi in their dispositions, manners,
and customs; and proofs, too convincing, appeared that the horrid
banquet of human flesh is here as much relished, amidst plenty, as it
is in New Zealand. From a desire of benefiting these people by
furnishing them with additional articles of food, the captain left
them a ram goat and two ewes, a boar and sow pig of the English breed,
and the seeds of melons, pumpkins and onions. These benevolent
presents would have been made to Atooi, the larger island, had not our
navigators been unexpectedly driven from it by stress of weather.
Though the soil of Oneeheow seemed in general poor it was observable,
that the ground was covered with shrubs and plants, some of which
perfumed the air with a more delicious fragrancy than what Captain
Cook had met with at any other of the countries that had been visited
by him in this part of the world.
It is a curious circumstance, with regard to the islands in the
Pacific Ocean which the late European voyages have added to the
geography of the globe, that they have generally been found to lie in
groups, or clusters. The single intermediate islands, which have as
yet been discovered, are few in proportion to the others; though there
are probably many more of them that are still unknown, and may serve
as steps, by which the several clusters are to some degree connected
together. Of the archipelago now first visited, there were five only
with which our commander became at this time acquainted. The names of
these, as given by the natives, were Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow,
Oreehoua, and Tahoora. To the whole group Captain Cook gave the
appellation of Sandwich Islands, in honour of his great friend and
patron, the Earl of Sandwich.
Concerning the island of Atooi, which is the largest of the five, and
which was the principal scene of the captain's operations, he
collected, in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, a considerable degree of
information. The land, as to its general appearance, does not in the
least resemble any of the islands that our voyagers had hitherto
visited within the tropic, on the south side of the equator; excepting
so far as regards its hills near the centre, which slope gently
towards the sea. Hogs, dogs, and fowls, were the only tame or domestic
animals that were to be found; and these were of the same kind with
those which exist in the countries of the South Pacific Ocean. Among
the inhabitants (who are of a middle stature, and firmly made), there
is a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of both
sexes, than our commander had observed in most other places. They
appeared to be blessed with a frank and cheerful disposition; and, in
Captain Cook's opinion, they are equally free from the fickle levity
which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate cast
discernable amongst many of those at Tongataboo. It is a very pleasing
circumstance in their character, that they pay a particular attention
to their women, and readily lend assistance to their wives in the
tender offices of maternal duty. On all occasions, they seemed to be
deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority; being
alike strangers to the preposterous pride of the more polished
Japanese, and of the ruder Greenlander. Contrary to the general
practice of the countries that had hitherto been discovered in the
Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Islands have not their ears
perforated; nor have they the least idea of wearing ornaments in them,
though, in other respects, they are sufficiently fond of adorning
their persons. In every thing manufactured by them, there is an
uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity; and the elegant form and
polish of some of their fishing-hooks could not be exceeded by any
European artist, even if he should add all his knowledge in design to
the number and convenience of his tools. From what was seen of their
agriculture, sufficient proofs were afforded, that they are not
novices in that art; and that the quantity and goodness of their
vegetable productions may as much be attributed to skilful culture, as
to natural fertility of soil. Amidst all the resemblances between the
natives of Atooi, and those of Otaheite, the coincidence of their
languages was the most striking; being almost word for word the same.
Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered by the Spaniards at an early
period, they would undoubtedly have taken advantage of so excellent a
situation, and have made use of them as refreshing places, for their
ships, which sail annually from Acapulca for Manilla. Happy, too,
would it have been for Lord Anson, if he had known that there existed
a group of islands, half way between America and Tinian, where all his
wants could effectually have been supplied, and the different
hardships to which he was exposed have been avoided.
On the second of February, our navigators pursued their course to the
northward, in doing which the incidents they met with were almost
entirely of a nautical kind. The long looked-for coast of New Albion
was seen on the 7th of March, the ships being then in the latitude of
44 33' north, and in the longitude of 235 20' east. As the vessels
ranged along the west side of America, Captain Cook gave names to
several capes and headlands which appeared in sight. At length, on the
29th, the captain came to an anchor at an inlet, where the appearance
of the country differed much from what had been seen before; being
full of mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow; while
the valleys between them, and the grounds on the sea-coast, high as
well as low, were covered, to a considerable breadth, was high,
straight trees, which formed a beautiful prospect, as of one vast
forest. It was immediately found, that the coast was inhabited; and
there soon came off to the Resolution three canoes, containing
eighteen of the natives; who could not, however, be prevailed upon to
venture themselves on board. Notwithstanding this, they displayed a
peaceable disposition; shewed great readiness to part with any thing
they had, in exchange for what was offered them; and expressed a
stronger desire for iron than for any other of our commercial
articles, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that
metal. From these favourable circumstances, our voyagers had reason to
hope, that they should find this a comfortable station to supply all
their wants, and to make them forget the hardships and delays which
they had experienced during a constant succession of adverse winds,
and boisterous weather, almost ever since their arrival upon the coast
of America.
The ships having happily found an excellent inlet, the coasts of which
appeared to be inhabited by a race of people who were disposed to
maintain a friendly intercourse with strangers, Captain Cook's first
object was to search for a commodious harbour; and he had little
trouble in discovering what he wanted. A trade having immediately
commenced, the articles which the inhabitants offered for sale were
the skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer,
racoons, polecats, martins; and, in particular, of the sea-otters. To
these were added, besides the skins in their native shape, garments
made of them; another sort of clothing, formed from the bark of a
tree; and various different pieces of workmanship. But of all the
articles brought to market, the most extraordinary were human skulls,
and hands not yet quite stripped of their flesh; some of which had
evident marks of their having been upon the fire. The things, which
the natives took in exchange for their commodities, were knives,
chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or
any kind of metal. Glass beads did not strike their imaginations; and
cloth of every sort they rejected. Though commerce, in general, was
carried on with mutual honesty, there were some among these people who
were as much inclined to thievery as the islanders in the Southern
Ocean. They were, at the same time, far more dangerous thieves; for,
possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a
tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the moment that the
backs of the English were turned. The dexterity with which they
conducted their operations of this nature, frequently eluded the most
cautious vigilance. Some slighter instances of deception, in the way
of traffic, Captain Cook thought it better to bear with, than to make
them the foundation of a quarrel; and to this he was the rather
determined, as the English articles were now reduced to objects of a
trifling nature. In the progress of the commerce, the natives would
deal for nothing but metal; and, at length, brass was so eagerly
sought for, in preference to iron, that, before our navigators quitted
the place, scarcely a bit of it was left in the ships, excepting what
belonged to the necessary instruments. Whole suits of clothes were
stripped of every button: bureaus were deprived of their furniture;
copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and whatever of the like
kind could be found, all went to wreck; so that these Americans became
possessors of a greater medley and variety of things from our people,
than any other nation that had been visited in the course of the
voyage.
Of all the uncivilized tribes which our commander had met with in his
several navigations, he never found any who had such strict notions of
their having a right to the exclusive property of everything which
their country produces, as the inhabitants of the sound where he was
now stationed. At first, they wanted to be paid for the wood and water
that were carried on board; and had the captain been upon the spot,
when these demands were made, he would certainly have complied with
them; but the workmen, in his absence, maintained a different opinion,
and refused to submit to any such claims. When some grass, which
appeared to be of no use to the natives, was wanted to be cut, as food
for the few goats and sheep which still remained on board, they
insisted that it should be purchased, and were very unreasonable in
their terms; notwithstanding which Captain Cook consented to gratify
them, as far as he was able. It was always a sacred rule with him,
never to take any of the property of the people whom he visited,
without making them an ample compensation.
The grand operation of our navigators, to their present station, was
to put the ships into a complete repair for the prosecution of the
expedition. While this business was carrying on, our commander took
the opportunity of examining every part of the sound; in the course of
which he gained a farther knowledge of the inhabitants, who in
general, received him with great civility. In one instance he met with
a surly chief, who could not be softened with presents, though he
condesended to accept of them. The females of the place over which he
presided shewed a more agreeable disposition; for some of the young
women expeditiously dressed themselves in their best apparel, and,
assembling in a body, welcomed the English to their village, by
joining in a song, which was far from being harsh or dissagreeable. On
another occasion, the captain was entertained with singing. Being
visited by a number of strangers, on the 22nd of April, as they
advanced towards the ships, they all stood up in their canoes, and
began to sing. Some of their songs, in which the whole body joined,
were in a slow, and others in a quicker time; and their notes were
accompanied with the most regular motions of their hands; or with
beating in concert, with their paddles, on the sides of their canoes;
to which were added other very expressive gestures. At the end of each
song, they continued silent for a few moments, and then began again,
sometimes pronouncing the word _Hooee!_ forcibly as a chorus.
Among the natives of the country, there was one chief who attached
himself to our commander in a particular manner. Captain Cook having,
at parting, bestowed upon him a small present, received, in return, a
beaver skin, of much greater value. This called upon the captain to
make some addition to his present, with which the chief was so much
pleased, that he insisted on our commander's acceptance of the
beaver-skin cloak which he then wore; and of which he was particularly
fond. Admiring this instance of generosity, and desirous that he
should not suffer by his friendship, the captain gave him a new
broad-sword, with a brass hilt; the possession of which rendered him
completely happy.
On Captain Cook's first arrival in this inlet, he had honoured it with
the name of King George's Sound; but he afterward found that it is
called Nootka by the natives. During his stay in the place, he
displayed his usual sagacity and diligence, in conjunction with Mr.
Anderson, in collecting every thing that could be learned concerning
the neighbouring country and its inhabitants; and the account is
interesting, as it exhibits a picture of productions, people, and
manners very different from what had occurred in the Southern Ocean. I
can only, as on former occasions, slightly advert to a few of the more
leading circumstances. The climate, so far as our navigators had
experience of it, was found to be in an eminent degree milder than
that on the east coast of America, in the same parallel of latitude:
and it was remarkable, that the thermometer, even in the night, never
fell lower than 42 ; while in the day it frequently rose to 60 . With
regard to trees, those of which the woods are chiefly composed, are
the Canadian pine, the white cypress and the wild pine, with two or
three different sorts of pine that are less common. In the other
vegetable productions there appeared but little variety: but it is to
be considered, that, at so early a season, several might not yet have
sprung up; and that many more might be concealed from our voyagers, in
consequence of the narrow sphere of their researches. Of the land
animals, the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The sea
animals, which were seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, and
seals. Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different
species, but very scarce as to numbers; and the few which are to be
met with are so shy, that, in all probability, they are continually
harassed by the natives; either to eat them as food, or to get
possession of their feathers, which are used as ornaments. Fish are
more plentiful in quantity than birds, but were not found in any great
variety; and yet, from several circumstances, there was reason to
believe, that the variety is considerably increased at certain
seasons. The only animals that were observed of the reptile kind were
snakes and water-lizards; but the insect tribe seemed to be more
numerous.
With respect to the inhabitants of the country, their persons are
generally under the common stature; but not slender in proportion,
being usually pretty full or plump, though without being muscular.
From their bringing to sale human skulls and bones, it may justly be
inferred, that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal
cruelty; notwithstanding which, it does not follow, that they are to
be reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity: for the
circumstance now mentioned only marks a general agreement of character
with that of almost every tribe of uncivilized men, in every age, and
in every part of the globe. Our navigators had no reason to complain
of the disposition of the natives, who appeared to be a docile
courteous, good-natured people; rather phlegmatic in the usual cast of
their tempers, but quick in resenting what they apprehend to be an
injury, and easily permitting their anger to subside. Their other
passions, and especially their curiosity, seemed to lie in some
measure dormant; one cause of which may be found in the indolence
that, for the most part, is prevalent amongst them. The chief
employments of the men are those of fishing, and of killing land or
sea animals, for the sustenance of their families; while the women are
occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, or in
other domestic offices. It must be mentioned to their honour, that
they were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost
decorum; justly deserving all commendation, for a bashfulness and
modesty becoming their sex: and this was the more meritorious in them,
as the male inhabitants discovered no sense of shame. In their
manufactures and mechanic arts, these people have arrived to a greater
degree of extent and ingenuity, both with regard to the design and the
execution, than could have been expected from their natural
disposition, and the little progress to which they have arrived in
general civilization. Their dexterity, in particular, with respect to
works of wood, must principally be ascribe to the assistance they
receive from iron tools, which are in universal use amongst them, and
in the application of which they are very dexterous. Whence they have
derived their knowledge of iron was a matter of speculation with
Captain Cook. The most probable opinion is, that this and other metals
may have been introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, and thus
successively have been conveyed across the continent, from tribe to
tribe. Nor is it unreasonable to suppose, that those metals may
sometimes be brought, in the same manner, from the north-western parts
of Mexico.[11] The language of Nootka is by no means harsh or
disagreeable; for it abounds, upon the whole, rather with what may be
called labial and dental, than with guttural sounds. A large
vocabulary of it was collected by Mr. Anderson.
[Footnote 11: Two silver spoons of a construction similar to what
may sometimes be seen in Flemish pictures of still life, were
procured here by Mr. Gore, who bought them from a native, who wore
them, tied together with a leather thong, as an ornament round his
neck. Mr. Gore gave the spoons to Sir Joseph Banks.]
Whilst Captain Cook was at Nootka Sound, great attention was paid by
him, as usual, to astronomical and nautical subjects. The observations
which he had an opportunity of making were, indeed, so numerous, as to
form a very considerable addition to geographical and philosophical
science.
On the 26th, the repairs of the ships having been completed, every
thing was ready for the captain's departure. When, in the afternoon of
that day, the vessels were upon the point of sailing, the mercury in
the barometer fell unusually low; and there was every other presage of
an approaching storm, which might reasonably be expected to come from
the southward. This circumstance induced our commander in some degree
to hesitate, and especially as night was at hand, whether he should
venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But his anxious
impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing the
present opportunity of getting out of the sound, made a greater
impression upon his mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger.
He determined, therefore, to put to sea at all events; and accordingly
carried his design into execution that evening. He was not deceived in
his expectations of a storm. Scarcely were the vessels out of the
sound before the wind increased to a strong gale, with squalls and
rain, accompanied by so dark a sky, that the length of the ships could
not be seen. Happily the wind took a direction that blew our
navigators from the coast; and though, on the 27th, the tempest rose
to a perfect hurricane, and the Resolution sprang a leak, no material
damage ensued.
In the prosecution of the voyage to the north, and back again to the
Sandwich Islands, the facts that occurred were chiefly of a nautical
kind. Minutely to record these is not the purpose of the present work,
and indeed would extend it to an unreasonable length.
From this long and important navigation, I can only select some few
incidents, that may be accommodated to the taste and expectations of
the generality of readers.
One thing it is not improper here to observe; which is, that the
captain, in his passage along the coast of America, kept at a distance
from that coast, whenever the wind blew strongly upon it, and sailed
on till he could approach it again with safety. Hence several great
gaps were left unexplored, and particularly between the latitudes of
50 and 55 . The exact situation, for instance, of the supposed
Straits of Anian was not ascertained. Every one who is acquainted with
the character of our commander will be sensible, that if he had lived
to return again to the north in 1779. he would have endeavoured to
explore the parts which had been left unexamined.
The first place at which Captain Cook landed, after his departure from
Nootka Sound, was at an island, of eleven or twelve leagues in length,
the south-west point of which lies in the latitude of 59 49' north,
and the longitude of 216 58' east. Here, on the 11th of May, at the
foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, he left a
bottle, with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the
ships, and the date of the discovery. Together with the bottle, he
enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his majesty's coin, which had
been struck in 1772. These, with many others, had been given him by
the Reverend Dr. Kaye, the present Dean of Lincoln; and our commander,
as a mark of his esteem and regard for that learned and respectable
gentleman, named the island, after him, Kaye's island.
At an inlet, where the ships came to an anchor, on the 12th, and to
which Captain Cook gave the appellation of Prince William's Sound, he
had an opportunity not only of stopping the leak which the Resolution
had sprung in the late storm, and of prosecuting his nautical and
geographical discoveries, but of making considerable additions to his
knowledge of the inhabitants of the American coast. From every
observation which was made concerning the persons of the natives of
this part of the coast, it appeared, that they had a striking
resemblance to those of the Esquimaux and Greenlanders. Their canoes,
their weapons, and their instruments for fishing and hunting, are
likewise exactly the same, in point of materials and construction,
that are used in Greenland. The animals in the neighbourhood of Prince
William's Sound are, in general, similar to those which are found at
Nootka. One of the most beautiful skins here offered for sale, was,
however, that of a small animal, which seemed to be peculiar to the
place. Mr. Anderson was inclined to think that it is the animal which
is described by Mr. Pennant, under the name of the _casan_
marmot. Among the birds seen in this country, were the white-headed
eagle; the shag; and the _alcedo_, or great king-fisher, the
colours of which were very fine and bright. The humming-bird, also,
came frequently and flew about the ship, while at anchor; but it can
scarcely be supposed, that it can be able to subsist here during the
severity of winter. Waterfowl, upon the whole, are in considerable
plenty; and there is a species of diver, about the size of a
partridge, which seems peculiar to the place. Torsk and halibut were
almost the only kinds of fish that were obtained by our voyagers.
Vegetables, of any sort, were few in number; and the trees were
chiefly the Canadian and spruce pine, some of which were of a
considerable height and thickness. The beads and iron, that were found
among the people of the coast, must undoubtedly have been derived from
some civilized nation; and yet there was ample reason to believe that
our English navigators were the first Europeans with whom the natives
had ever held a direct communication. From what quarter, then, had
they gotten our manufactures? Most probably, through the intervention
of the more inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the settlements on
the Canadian lakes. This, indeed, must certainly have been the case,
if iron was known, amongst the inhabitants of this part of the
American coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, and
before there was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka.
From what was seen of Prince William's Sound, Captain Cook judged that
it occupied, at least, a degree and a half of latitude, and two of
longitude, exclusively of the arms or branches, the extent of which is
not known.
Some days after leaving this sound our navigators came to an inlet,
from which great things were expected. Hopes were strongly
entertained, that it would be found to communicate either with the sea
to the north, or with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the east; and
accordingly it became the object of very accurate and serious
examination. The captain was soon persuaded that the expectations
formed from it were groundless; notwithstanding which, he persisted in
the search of a passage, more, indeed, to satisfy other people, than
to confirm his own opinion. In consequence of a complete investigation
of the inlet, indubitable marks occurred of its being a river. This
river, without seeing the least appearance of its source, was traced
by our voyagers, as high as the latitude of 61 34', and the longitude
of 210 , being seventy leagues from its entrance. During the course of
the navigation, on the first of June, Lieutenant King was ordered on
shore, to display the royal flag, and to take possession of the
country in his majesty's name. The lieutenant, at the same time,
buried in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of English coin,
of the year 1772, and a paper, on which the names of the ships were
inscribed, and the date of the present discovery. The great river now
discovered, promises to vie with the most considerable ones already
known; and, by itself and its branches, lies open to a very extensive
inland communication. If, therefore, the knowledge of it should be of
future service, the time which was spent in exploring it ought the
less to be regretted. But to Captain Cook, who had a much greater
object in view, the delay that was hence occasioned was a real loss,
because the season was advancing apace. It was, however, a
satisfaction to him to reflect, that if he had not examined this very
considerable inlet, it would have been assumed, by speculative
fabricators of geography, as a fact, that there was a passage through
it to the North Sea, or to Baffin's or Hudson's Bay. Perhaps, too, it
would have been marked, on future maps of the world, with greater
precision, and more, certain signs of reality, than the invisible,
because imaginary, Straits of de Fuca and de Fonte. In describing the
inlet, our commander had left a blank which was not filled up with any
particular name; and, therefore, the Earl of Sandwich directed, with
the greatest propriety, that it should be called Cook's River.
All the natives who were met with, during the examination of this
river, appeared, from every mark of resemblance, to be of the same
nation with the inhabitants of Prince Willam's Sound; but from the
people of Nootka, or King George's Sound, they essentially differed,
both in their persons and their language. The only things which were
seen among them, that were not of their own manufacture, were a few
glass beads, the iron points of their spears, and knives of the same
metal. Whencesoever these articles might be derived, it was evident,
that they had never had any immediate intercourse with the Russians;
since, if that had been the case, our voyagers would scarcely have
found them clothed in such valuable skins as those of the sea-otter. A
very beneficial fur-trade might undoubtedly be carried on with the
inhabitants of this vast coast. But without a practicable northern
passage, the situation is too remote to render it probable, that Great
Britain should hence ever derive any material advantage; though it is
impossible to say with certainty, how far the spirit of commerce, for
which the English nation is so eminently distinguished, may extend.
The most valuable, or rather the only valuable skins, which Captain
Cook saw on the west side of America, were those of the sea-otter; for
as to the skins of all the other animals of the country, and
especially of the foxes and martins, they seemed to be of an inferior
quality.
It was on the 6th of June that our navigators got clear of Cook's
River. Proceeding in the course of their discoveries, when they were
sailing, on the 19th, amidst the group of islands, which were called,
by Beering, Schumagin's Islands, Captain Clerke fired three guns, and
brought to, expressing by the proper signals, that he wished to speak
with Captain Cook. At this our commander was not a little alarmed; and
as no apparent danger had been remarked in the passage through the
channel where the vessels now were, it was apprehended, that some
accident, such as springing a leak, must have happened. On Captain
Clerke's coming on board the Resolution, he related that several of
the natives had followed his ship; that one of them had made many
signs, taking off his cap, and bowing after the manner of Europeans;
and that, at length, he had fastened to a rope, which was handed down
to him, a small thin wooden case or box. Having delivered his parcel
safe, and spoken something, accompanied with more signs, the canoes
dropped astern, and left the Discovery. On opening the box, a piece of
paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which something was
written, that was reasonably supposed to be in the Russian language.
To the paper was prefixed the date 1778, and in the body of the note
there was a reference to the year 1776. Although no person on board
was learned enough to decipher the alphabet of the writer, his
numerals sufficiently marked, that others had preceded our voyagers in
visiting this dreary part of the globe; and the prospect of soon
meeting with men, who were united to them in ties somewhat closer than
those of our common nature, and who were not strangers to the arts and
commerce of civilized life, could not but afford a sensible
satisfaction to people who, for such a length of time, had been
conversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the North
American continent. Captain Clerke was, at first, of opinion that some
Russians had been shipwrecked; but no such idea occurred to Captain
Cook. He rather thought, that the paper contained a note of
information, left by some Russian traders, to be delivered to the next
of their countrymen who should arrive; and that the natives, seeing
the English pass, and supposing them to be Russians, had resolved to
bring off the note. Accordingly, our commander pursued his voyage,
without inquiring farther into the matter.
On the 21st, amongst some hills, on the main land, that towered above
the clouds to a most amazing height, one was discovered to have a
volcano, which continually threw up vast columns of black smoke. It
doth not stand far from the coast; and it lies in the latitude of 54
48', and the longitude of 195 45'. The mountain was rendered
remarkable by its figure, which is a complete cone, and the volcano is
at the very summit. While, in the afternoon of the same day, during a
calm of three hours the English were fishing with great success for
halibuts, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to them from an
island in the neighbourhood. On approaching the ship, he took off his
cap, and bowed, as the native had done, who had visited the Discovery
a day or two before. From the acquired politeness of these people, as
well as from the note already mentioned, it was evident that the
Russians must have a communication and traffic with them; and of this
a fresh proof occurred in the present visitor; for he wore a pair of
green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, or stuff, under the
gut-shirt or frock of his own country.
In the prosecution of the voyage, on the 26th, there was so thick a
fog, that our navigators could not see a hundred yards before them;
notwithstanding which, as the weather was moderate, the captain did
not intermit his course. At length, however, being alarmed at the
sound of breakers on one side of the ship, he immediately brought her
to, and came to anchor; and the Discovery, by his order, did the same.
A few hours after, the fog having in some degree cleared away, it
appeared, that both the vessels had escaped a very imminent danger.
Providence, in the dark, had conducted them between rocks which our
commander would not have ventured to pass through in a clear day, and
had conveyed them to an anchoring place, as good as he could possibly
have fixed upon, had the choice been entirely at his option.
On the 27th, our voyagers reached an island, that is known by the name
of Oonalashka; the inhabitants of which behaved with a degree of
politeness uncommon to savage tribes. A young man, who had overset his
canoe, being obliged by this accident to come on board the ship, went
down into Captain Cook's cabin, upon the first invitation, without
expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes being
wet, the captain gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as
much ease as any Englishman could have done. From the behaviour of
this youth, and that of some of the rest of the natives, it was
evident, that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to
several of their customs. There was something, however, in the English
ships, that greatly excited their attention; for such as could not
come off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at
them. In one instance it was apparent, that the inhabitants were so
far from having made any progress in politeness, that they were still
immersed in the most savage manners. For as our commander was walking
along the shore, on the 29th, he met with a group of them, of both
sexes, who were seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting of raw
fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish, as persons in
civilized life would experience from a turbot, served up in the
richest sauce. Soon after the vessels had come to an anchor at
Oonalashka, a native of the island brought on board such another note
as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to Captain Cook;
but, as it was written in the Russian language, and could be of no use
to the English, though it might be of consequence to others, the
captain returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few
presents; for which he expressed his thanks by making several low bows
as he retired.
On the 2nd of July, our voyagers put to sea from Oonalashka; and,
pursuing their course of navigation and discovery, came, on the 16th,
within sight of a promontory, near which our commander ordered
Lieutenant Williamson to land, that he might see what direction the
coast took beyond it, and what the country produced. Accordingly, Mr.
Williamson went on shore, and reported, on his return, that, having
landed on the point, and climbed the highest hill, he found that the
farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. At the same
time, he took possession of the country in his majesty's name, and
left a bottle, in which was enclosed a piece of paper, containing an
inscription of the names of the ships, together with the date of the
discovery. To the promontory he gave the name of Cape Newenham. The
land, as far as Mr. Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor
shrub; but the lower grounds were not destitute of grass, and of some
other plants, very few of which were in flower.
When our navigators, on the 3rd of August, had advanced to the
latitude of 62 34', a great loss was sustained by them in the death
of Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who had been lingering
under a consumption for more than twelve months. He was a young man of
a cultivated understanding and agreeable manners, and was well skilled
in his own profession; besides which, he had acquired a considerable
degree of knowledge in other branches of science. How useful an
assistant he was to Captain Cook, hath often appeared in the present
narrative. Had his life been spared, the public would undoubtedly have
received from him such communications, on various parts of the natural
history of the several places that had been visited, as would justly
have entitled him to very high commendation. The proofs of his
abilities that now remain, will hand down the name of Anderson, in
conjunction with that of Cook, to posterity. Soon after he had
breathed his last, land having been seen at a distance, which was
supposed to be an island, our commander honoured it with the
appellation of Anderson's Island. The next day he removed Mr. Law, the
surgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr.
Samwell, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of
the Discovery.
On the 9th, Captain Cook came to an anchor under a point of land, to
which he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales, and which is
remarkable by being the most western extremity of America hitherto
explored. This extremity is distant from the eastern Cape of Siberia
only thirteen leagues: and thus our commander had the glory of
ascertaining the vicinity of the two continents, which had only been
conjectured from the reports of the neighbouring Asiatic inhabitants,
and the imperfect observations of the Russian navigators.
Resuming his course on the 10th, Captain Cook anchored in a bay, the
land of which was at first supposed to be part of the island of
Alaschka, which is laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map. But, from the
figure of the coast, from the situation of the opposite shore of
America, and from the longitude, the captain soon began to think, that
it was more probably the country of the Tschutski, on the eastern
extremity of Asia, which had been explored by Beering in 1728. In the
result it appeared, that this was in fact the case. Our commander
became fully satisfied in the farther progress of his voyage, that Mr.
Staehlin's map must be erroneous; and he had the honour of restoring
the American continent to that space which the geographer now
mentioned had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka.
From the Bay of St. Lawrence, belonging to the country of the
Tschutski, our navigators steered, on the 11th, to the east, in order
to get nearer to the coast of America. After that, proceeding to the
north, they reached, on the 17th, the latitude of 70 33'. On this
day, a brightness was perceived in the northern horizon, like that
which is reflected from ice, and is commonly called the _blink_.
This was at first but little noticed, from a supposition that there
was no probability of meeting with ice so soon: and yet the sharpness
of the air, and the gloominess of the weather, had, for two or three
days past, seemed to indicate a sudden change. In about an hour's
time, the sight of a large field of ice left Captain Cook no longer in
doubt with regard to the cause of the brightness of the horizon. The
ships, in the same afternoon, being then in the latitude of 70 41',
were close to the edge of the ice, and not able to stand on any
farther. On the 18th, when the vessels were in the latitude of 70
44', the ice on the side of them was as compact as a wall, and was
judged to be at least ten or twelve feet in height. Farther to the
north, it appeared to be much higher. Its surface was extremely
rugged, and in different places there were seen upon it pools of
water. A prodigious number of sea-horses lay upon the ice; and some of
them, on the nineteenth, were procured for food, there being at this
time a want of fresh provisions. When the animals were brought to the
vessels, it was no small disappointment to many of the seamen, who had
feasted their eyes for several days with the prospect of eating them,
to find that they were not sea-cows, as they had supposed, but
sea-horses. The disappointment would not have been occasioned, or the
difference known, had there not happened to be one or two sailors on
board who had been in Greenland, and who declared what these animals
were, and that it never was customary to eat of them. Such, however,
was the anxiety for a change of diet, as to overcome this prejudice.
Our voyagers lived upon the sea-horses as long as they lasted; and
there were few who did not prefer them to the salt meat.
Captain Cook continued, to the 29th, to traverse the Icy Sea beyond
Beering's Strait, in various directions, and through numberless
obstructions and difficulties. Every day the ice increased, so as to
preclude all hopes of attaining, at least during the present year the
grand object of the voyage. Indeed, the season was now so far
advanced, and the time in which the frost was expected to set in was
so near at hand, that it would have been totally inconsistent with
prudence, to have made any farther attempts, till the next summer, at
finding a passage into the Atlantic. The attention, therefore, of our
commander was now directed to other important and necessary concerns.
It was of great consequence to meet with a place where our navigators
might be supplied with wood and water. But the point which principally
occupied the captain's thoughts was, how he should spend the winter,
so as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at
the same time, to be in a condition to return to the north, in farther
search of a passage, in the ensuing summer.
Before Captain Cook proceeded far to the south, he employed a
considerable time in examining the sea and coasts in the neighbourhood
of Beering's Strait, both on the side of Asia and America. In this
examination, he ascertained the accuracy of Beering, so far as he
went; demonstrated the errors with which Staehlin's map of the New
Northern Archipelago abounds; and made large additions to the
geographical knowledge of this part of the world. 'It reflects,' as
Mr. Coxe justly observes, 'the highest honour even on the British
name, that our great navigator extended his discoveries much farther
in one expedition, and at so great a distance from the point of his
departure, than the Russians accomplished in a long series of years,
and in parts belonging or contiguous to their own empire.'
On the 2nd of October, our voyagers came within sight of the island of
Oonalashka, and anchored the next day in Samganoodha harbour. Here the
first concern was to put the ships under the necessary repair; and,
while the carpenters were employed in this business, one third of the
people had permission, by turns, to go and collect the berries with
which the island abounds, and, which, though now beginning to be in a
state of decay, did not a little contribute, in conjunction with
spruce-beer, effectually to eradicate every seed of the scurvy, that
might exist in either of the vessels. Such a supply of fish was
likewise procured, as not only served for present consumption, but
afforded a quantity to be carried out to sea; so that hence a
considerable saving was made of the provisions of the ships, which was
at this time an object of no small importance.
Captain Cook, on the 8th, received by the hands of an Oonalashka man,
named Derramoushk, a very singular present, which was that of a rye
loaf, or rather a pie in the form of a loaf, for it enclosed some
salmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present for
Captain Clerke, and a note for each of the two captains, written in a
character which none on board could understand. It was natural to
suppose, that the presents came from some Russians in the
neighbourhood; and therefore a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter,
were sent to these unknown friends in return; it being rightly judged,
that such articles would be more acceptable than any thing besides
which it was in the power of our navigators to bestow. Corporal
Lediard of the marines,[12] an intelligent man, was, at the same time,
directed to accompany Derramoushk, for the purpose of gaining farther
information; and with orders, if he met with any Russians, that he
should endeavour to make them understand that our voyagers were
Englishmen, and the friends and allies of their nation. On the 10th
the corporal returned with three. Russian seamen, or furriers, who,
with several others, resided at Egoochshac, where they had a
dwellinghouse, some storehouses,[12] and a sloop of about thirty tons
burden. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel;
another of them wrote a very good hand, and was acquainted with
figures: and all of them were sensible and well behaved persons, who
were ready to give Captain Cook every possible degree of information.
The great difficulty, in the reception and communication of
intelligence, arose from the want of an interpreter. On the 14th, a
Russian landed at Oonalashka, whose name was Erasim Gregorioff Sin
Ismyloff, and who was the principal person among his countrymen in
this and the neighbouring islands. Besides the intelligence which our
commander derived from his conversations with Ismyloff, and which were
carried on by signs, assisted by figures and other characters, he
obtained from him the sight of two charts, and was permitted to copy
them. Both of them were manuscripts, and bore every mark of
authenticity. The first included the Penshinskian Sea; the coast of
Tartary, down to the latitude of 41 ; the Curil Islands and the
peninsula of Kamtschatka. But it was the second chart that was the
most interesting to Captain Cook; for it comprehended all the
discoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of Kamtschatka,
towards America; which, however, exclusively of the voyages of Beering
and Tscherikoff, amounted to little or nothing. Indeed, all the people
with whom the captain conversed at Oonalashka, agreed in assuring him,
over and over again, that they knew of no other islands, besides those
which were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had ever
seen any part of the continent of America to the northward, excepting
that which lies opposite to the country of the Tschutskis.
[Footnote 12: This Corporal Lediard is an extraordinary man,
something of whose history cannot fail of being entertaining to my
readers. In the winter of 1768, he set out on the singular
undertaking of walking across the continent of America; for the
accomplishment of which purpose, he determined to travel by the
way of Siberia, and to procure a passage from that country to the
opposite American coast. Being an American by birth, and having;
no means of raising the money necessary for his expenses, a
subscription was raised for him by Sir Joseph Banks, and some
other gentlemen, accounting, in the whole to a little more than
fifty pounds. Vith this sum he proceeded to Hamburgh, frum which
place he went to Copenhagen, and thence to Petersburgh, where he
arrived in the beginning of March, 1787. In his journey from
Copenhagen to Petersburgh, finding that the gulf of Bothnia was
not frozen over, he was obliged to walk round the whole of it, by
Tornao. At Petersburgh he staid till the 21st of May, when he
obtained leave to accompany a convoy of military stores, which at
that time was proceeding to Mr. Bilious, who had been his shipmate
in Captain Cook's voyage, and who was then employed by the Empress
of Russia, for the purpose of making discoveries in Siberia, and
on the north-west coast of America. With this convoy Mr. Lediard
set out, and in August reached the city of Irkutsk in Siberia.
After that, he proceeded to the town of Yakutsk, where he met with
Captain Billings. From this place he went back to Irkutsh, to
spend a part of the winter; proposing, in the spring, to return to
Yakutsk, in order to proceed in the summer to Okotsk.
Hitherto, Mr. Lediard had gone on prosperously, and flattered
himself with the hopes of succeeding in his undertaking. But. in
January last (1788), in consequence of an express from the
empress, he was arrested, and, to half an hour's time, carried
away, under the guard of two soldiers and an officer, in a post
sledge, for Moscow, without his clothes, money, and papers. From
Moscow he was conveyed to the city of Moialoff in White Russia,
and thence to the town of Tolochin in Poland. There he was
informed, that her majesty's orders were, that he was never to
enter her dominions again without her express permission. During
all this time, he suffered the greatest hardships, from sickness,
fatigue, and want of rest; so that he was almost reduced to a
skeleton. From Tolochin he made his way to Konigsberg; having had,
as he says, a miserable journey, in a miserable country, in a
miserable season, in miserable health, and a miserable purse; and.
disappointed of his darling enterprise. Mr. Lediard informs Sir
Joseph Banks, to whom he sent, from time to time, a full account
of his transactions, that, though he had been retarded in his
pursuits by malice, he had not travelled totally in vain; his
observations to Asia being, perhaps, as complete as a longer visit
would have rendered them. From his last letter it appears, that he
proposed to return, as speedily as possible, from Konigsberg to
England.]
When, on the 21st, Mr. Ismyloff took his final leave of the English
navigators, our commander intrusted to his care a letter to the lords
commissioners of the admiralty, in which was enclosed a chart of all
the northern coasts the captain had visited. It was expected, that
there would be an opportunity of sending this letter, in the ensuing
spring, to Kamtschatka or Okotsk, and that it would reach Petersburgh
during the following winter. Mr. Ismyloff, who faithfully and
successfully discharged the trust our commander had reposed in him,
seemed to possess abilities, that might entitle him to a higher
station in life than that which he occupied. He had a considerable
knowledge of astronomy, and was acquainted with the most useful
branches of the mathematics. Captain Cook made him a present of an
Hadley's octant; and, though it was probably the first he had ever
seen, he understood, in a very short time, the various uses to which
that instrument can be applied.
While the ships lay at Oonalashka, our voyagers did not neglect to
make a diligent inquiry into the productions of the island, and the
general manners of the inhabitants. On these, as being in a great
measure similar to objects which have already been noticed, it is not
necessary to enlarge. There is one circumstance, however, so
honourable to the natives, that it must not be omitted. They are, to
all appearance, the most peaceable and inoffensive people our
commander had ever met with; and, with respect to honesty, they might
serve as a pattern to countries that are in the highest state of
civilization. A doubt is suggested, whether this disposition may not
have been the consequence of their present subjection to the Russians.
From the affinity which was found to subsist between the dialects of
the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of the inhabitants of
Norton's Sound and Oonalashka, there is strong reason to believe, that
all these nations are of the same extraction; and, if that be the
case, the existence of a northern communication of some kind, by sea,
between the west of America and the east side, through Baffin's Bay,
can scarcely be doubted; which communication, nevertheless, may
effectually be shut up against ships, by ice and other impediments.
While the vessels lay in Samganoodha harbour, Captain Cook exerted his
usual diligence in making nautical and astronomical observations. All
things, on the 26th, having been gotten ready for his departure, he
put to sea on that day, and sailed for the Sandwich Islands; it being
his intention to spend a few months there, and then to direct his
course to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour to reach that country by the
middle of May, in the ensuing summer.
On the 26th of November, when the ships had proceeded southward till
they came to the latitude of 20 55', land was discovered, which
proved to be an island of the name of Mowee, that had not hitherto
been visited. It is one of the group of the Sandwich Islands. As it
was of the last importance to procure a supply of provisions at these
islands, and experience had taught our commander, that he could have
had no chance of succeeding in his object, if it were left to every
man's discretion to traffic for what he pleased, and in what manner he
pleased; the captain published an order, prohibiting all persons from
trading, excepting such as should be appointed by himself and Captain
Clerke. Even these persons were enjoined to trade only for provisions
and refreshments. While our navigators lay off Mowee, which was for
some days, a friendly intercourse was maintained with the inhabitants.
Another island was discovered on the 30th, which is called by the
natives Owhyhee. As it appeared to be of greater extent and importance
than any of the islands which had yet been visited in this part of the
world, Captain Cook spent nearly seven weeks in sailing round, and
examining its coast. Whilst he was thus employed, the inhabitants came
off, from time to time, in their canoes, and readily engaged in
traffic with our voyagers. In the conduct of this business, the
behaviour of the islanders was more entirely free from suspicion and
reserve than our commander had ever yet experienced. Noteven the
people of Otaheite itself, with whom he had been so intimately and
repeatedly connected, had displayed such a full confidence in the
integrity and good treatment of the English.
Among the articles procured from the natives, was a quantity of
sugarcane. Upon a trial, Captain Cook found that a strong decoction of
it produced a very palatable beer; on which account, he ordered some
more to be brewed, for general use. When, however, the barrel was
broached, not one of the crew would taste of the liquor. As the
captain had no motive in preparing this beverage, but that of sparing
the rum and other spirits for a colder climate, he did not exert
either authority or persuasion to prevail upon the men to change their
resolution; for he knew, that there was no danger of the scurvy, so
long as a plentiful supply could be obtained of different vegetables.
Nevertheless, that he might not be disappointed in his views, he gave
orders that no grog should be served in the ships; and he himself,
together with the officers, continued to make use of the sugarcane
beer, which was much improved by the addition of a few hops, that
chanced to be still on board. There could be no reasonable doubt of
its being a very wholesome liquor; and yet the inconsiderate crew
alleged that it would be injurious to their health. No people are more
averse to every kind of innovation than seamen, and their prejudices
are extremely difficult to be conquered. It was, however, by acting
contrary to these prejudices, and by various deviations from
established practice, that Captain Cook had been enabled to preserve
his men from that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which, perhaps, has
destroyed more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than have
fallen by the enemy in military expeditions.
As the captain was pursuing his examination of the coast of Owhyhee,
it having fallen calm at one o'clock in the morning of the 19th of
December, the Resolution was left to the mercy of a north-easterly
swell, which impelled her fast towards the land; so that, long before
daybreak, lights were seen from the land, which was not more than a
league distant. The night, at the same time, was dark, with thunder,
lightning and rain. As soon as it was light, a dreadful surf, within
half a league of the vessel, appeared breaking from the shore; and it
was evident, that our navigators had been in the most perilous
situation: nor was the danger yet over; for to consequence of the
veering of the wind, they were but just able to keep their distance
from the coast. What rendered their situation more alarming was, that
a rope of the main topsail having given way, this occasioned the sail
to be rent in two. In the same manner, the two topgallant sails gave
way, though they were not half worn out. However, a favourable
opportunity was seized of getting others to the yards; and the
Resolution again proceeded in safety.
On the 16th of January, 1779, canoes arrived in such numbers from all
parts, that there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships,
most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs, and other
productions of the islands. It was a satisfactory proof of their
friendly intentions, that there was not a single person amongst them
who had with him a weapon of any kind; trade and curiosity alone
appearing to be the motives which actuated their conduct. Among such
multitudes, however, as, at times, were on board, it will not be
deemed surprising, that some should betray a thievish disposition. One
of them took out of the Resolution a boat's rudder; and made off with
it so speedily, that it could not be recovered. Captain Cook judged
this to be a favourable opportunity of shewing to these people the use
of fire-arms; and accordingly he ordered two or three muskets, and as
many four-pounders, to be fired over the canoe, which carried off the
rudder. It not being intended that any of the shot should take effect,
the surrounding multitude of the natives seemed to be more surprised
than terrified.
Mr. Bligh, having been sent to examine a neighbouring bay, reported,
on his return, that it had good anchorage and fresh water, and that it
was in an accessible situation. Into this bay, therefore the captain
resolved to carry the ships, in order to refit, and to obtain every
refreshment which the place could afford. As night approached, the
greater part of the Indians retired on shore; but numbers of them
requested permission to sleep on board; in which request, curiosity
(at least with regard to several of them) was not their sole motive;
for it was found, the next morning, that various things were missing;
on which account our commander determined not to entertain so many
persons on board another night.
On the 17th, the ships came to an anchor in the bay which had been
examined by Mr. Bligh, and which is called Karakakooa by the
inhabitants. At this time, the vessels continued to be much crowded
with natives and were surrounded with a multitude of canoes. Captain
Cook, in the whole course of his voyages, had never seen so numerous a
body of people assembled in one place. For besides those who had come
off to the English in their canoes, all the shore of the bay was
covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the
ships like shoals of fish. Our navigators could not avoid being
greatly impressed with the singularity of this scene; and perhaps
there were few on board that now lamented the want of success which
had attended the endeavours of getting homeward, the last summer, by a
northern passage. 'To this disappointment,' says the captain, 'we owed
our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to
enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though the last, seemed, in
many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by
Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.'
Such is the sentence that concludes our commander's journal: and the
satisfaction with which this sentence appears to have been written,
cannot fail of striking the mind of every reader. Little did Captain
Cook then imagine, that a discovery which promised to add no small
honour to his name, and to be productive of very agreeable
consequences, should be so fatal in the result. Little did he think,
that the island of Owhyhee was destined to be the last scene of his
exploits, and the cause of his destruction.
The reception which the captain met with from the natives, on his
proceeding to anchor in Karakakooa Bay, was flattering in the highest
degree. They came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and
expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and by exhibiting a
variety of wild and extravagant gestures. Pareea, a young man of great
authority, and Kaneena, another chief, had already attached themselves
to our commander, and were very useful in keeping their countrymen
from being troublesome.
During the long cruise of our navigators off the island of Owhyhee,
the inhabitants had almost universally behaved with great fairness and
honesty in their dealings, and had not shewn the slightest propensity
to theft: and this was a fact the more extraordinary, as those with
whom our people had hitherto maintained any intercourse, were of the
lowest rank, being either servants or fishermen. But, after the
arrival of the Resolution and Discovery in Karakakooa Bay, the case
was greatly altered. The immense crowd of islanders that blocked up
every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunities of
pilfering without risk of detection; but held out, even if they should
be detected, a prospect of escaping with impunity, from the
superiority of their numbers to that of the English. Another
circumstance, to which the alteration in the conduct of the natives
might be ascribed, arose from the presence and encouragement of their
chiefs, into whose possession the booty might be traced, and whom
there was reason to suspect of being the instigators of the
depredations that were committed.
Soon after the Resolution had gotten into her station, Pareea and
Kaneena brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who was
represented as being a priest, and as having, in his early youth, been
a distinguished warrior. In the evening, Captain Cook attended by Mr.
Bayley and Mr. King, accompanied Koah on shore. Upon this occasion,
the captain was received with very peculiar and extraordinary
ceremonies; with ceremonies that indicated the highest respect on the
part of the natives, and which, indeed, seemed to fall little short of
adoration.
One of the principal objects that engaged our commander's attention at
Owhyhee, was the salting of hogs for sea-store; in which his success
was far more complete than had been attained in any former attempt of
the same kind. It doth not appear, that experiments relative to this
subject had been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain
Cook. His first trials were in 1774, during his second voyage round
the world; when his success, though very imperfect, was nevertheless,
sufficient to encourage his farther efforts, in a matter of so much
importance. As the present voyage was likely to be protracted a year
beyond the time for which the ships were victualled, he was under a
necessity of providing, by some such method, for the subsistence of
the crews, or of relinquishing the prosecution of his discoveries.
Accordingly, he lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts; and the
event answered his most sanguine expectations. Captain King brought
home with him some of the pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in
January, 1779; and, upon its being tasted by several persons in
England about Christmas, 1780, it was found to be perfectly sound and
wholesome. It seemed to be destined, that in every instance Captain
Cook should excel all who had gone before him, in promoting the
purposes of navigation.
On the 26th, the captain had his first interview with Terreeoboo, the
king of the island. The meeting was conducted with a variety of
ceremonies, among which, the custom of making an exchange of names,
which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean is the strongest
pledge of friendship, was observed. When the formalities of the
interview were over, our commander carried Terreeoboo, and as many
chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. They were
received, on this occasion, with every mark of respect that could be
shown them; and, in return for a beautiful and splendid feathered
cloak which the king had bestowed on Captain Cook, the captain put a
linen shirt on his majesty, and girt his own hanger round him.
In the progress of the intercourse which was maintained between our
voyagers and the natives, the quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the
latter took away every apprehension of danger; so that the English
trusted themselves among them at all times, and in all situations. The
instances of kindness and civility which our people experienced from
them were so numerous, that they could not easily be recounted. A
society of priests, in particular, displayed a generosity and
munificence, of which no equal example had hitherto been given: for
they furnished a constant supply of hogs and vegetables to our
navigators, without ever demanding a return, or even hinting at it in
the most distant manner. All this was said to be done at the expense
of a great man among them, who was at the head of their body, whose
name was Kaoo, and who on other occasions manifested his attachment to
the English. There was not always so much reason to be satisfied with
the conduct of the warrior chiefs, or earees, as with that of the
priests. Indeed, the satisfaction that was derived from the usual
gentleness and hospitality of the inhabitants, was frequently
interrupted by the propensity of many of them to stealing; and this
circumstance was the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged our
commander and the other officers to have recourse to acts of severity,
which they would willingly have avoided, if the necessity of the case
had not absolutely called for them.
Though the kind and liberal behaviour of the natives continued without
remission, Terreeoboo, and his chiefs, began at length to be very
inquisitive about the time in which our voyagers were to take their
departure. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is considered,
that, during sixteen days in which the English had been in the bay of
Karakakooa, they had made an enormous consumption of hogs and
vegetables. It did not appear, however, that Terreeoboo had any other
in view in his inquiries, than a desire of making sufficient
preparation for dismissing our navigators with presents, suitable to
the respect and kindness towards them which he had always displayed.
For, on his being informed, that they were to leave the island in a
day or two, it was observed, that a kind of proclamation was
immediately made through the villages, inquiring the people to bring
in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to present to the
orono,[13] on his quitting the country. Accordingly, on the 3rd of
February, being the day preceding the time which had been fixed for
the sailing of the ships, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and Mr. King
to attend him to the place where Kaoo resided. On their arrival, they
found the ground covered with parcels of cloth, at a small distance
from which lay an immense quantity of vegetables; and near them was a
large herd of hogs. At the close of the visit, the greater part of the
cloth, and the whole of the hogs and vegetables, were given by
Terreeoboo to the captain and Mr. King; who were astonished at the
value and magnificence of the present; for it far exceeded every thing
of the kind which they had seen either at the Friendly or Society
Islands. Mr. King had in so high a degree conciliated the affections,
and gained the esteem, of the inhabitants of Owhyhee, that, with
offers of the most flattering nature, he was strongly solicited to
remain in the country. Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook,
whose son they supposed Mr. King to be, with a formal request, that he
might be left behind. To avoid giving a positive refusal to an offer
which was so kindly intended, the captain told them that he could not
part with Mr. King at that time, but that, on his return to the island
in the next year, he would endeavour to settle the matter to their
satisfaction.
[Footnote 13: Orono was a title of high honour, which had been
bestowed on Captain Cook]
Early on the 4th, the ships sailed out of Karakakooa Bay, being
followed by a large number of canoes. It was our commander's design,
before he visited the other islands, to finish the survey of Owhyhee,
in hopes of meeting with a road better sheltered than the bay he had
just left. In case of not succeeding in this respect, he purposed to
take a view of the south-east part of Mowee, where he was informed
that he should find an excellent harbour.
The circumstances which brought Captain Cook back to Karakakooa Bay,
and the unhappy consequences that followed, I shall give from Mr.
Samwell's narrative of his death. This narrative was, in the most
obliging manner, communicated to me in manuscript, by Mr. Samwell,
with entire liberty to make such use of it as I should judge proper.
Upon a perusal of it, its importance struck me in so strong a light,
that I wished to have it separately laid before the world.
Accordingly, with Mr. Samwell's concurrence, I procured its
publication, that, if any objections should be made to it, I might be
able to notice them in my own work. As the narrative hath continued
for more than two years unimpeached and uncontradicted, I esteem
myself fully authorized to insert it in this place, as containing the
most complete and authentic account of the melancholy catastrophe,
which, at Owhyhee, befell our illustrious navigator and commander.
'On the 6th, we were overtaken by a gale of wind; and the next night,
the Resolution had the misfortune of springing the head of her
foremast, in such a dangerous manner, that Captain Cook was obliged to
return to Keragegooah,[14] in order to have it repaired; for we could
find no other convenient harbour on the island. The same gale had
occasioned much distress among some canoes, that had paid us a visit
from the shore. One of them, with two men and a child on board, was
picked up by the Resolution, and rescued from destruction; the men,
having toiled hard all night, in attempting to reach the land, were so
much exhausted, that they could hardly mount the ship's side. When
they got upon the quarter-deck, they burst into tears, and seemed much
affected with the dangerous situation from which they had escaped; but
the little child appeared lively and cheerful. One of the Resolution's
boats was also so fortunate as to save a man and two women, whose
canoe had been upset by the violence of the waves. They were brought
on board, and, with the others, partook of the kindness and humanity
of Captain Cook.
[Footnote 14: It is proper to take notice, that Mr. Samwell spells
the names of several persons and places differently from what is
dune in the history of the voyage.
For instance, Karakakooa
he calls Ke, rag, e, goo, all,
Terreeoboo Kariopoo,
Kowrowa Kavaroah,
Kaneecab areea Kaneekapo, herei,
Maiha maiha Ka, mea, mea.]
'On the morning of Wednesday, the 10th, we were within a few miles of
the harbour; and were soon joined by several canoes, in which appeared
many of our old acquaintances, who seemed to have come to welcome us
back. Among them was Coo, aha, a priest: he had brought a small pig,
and some cocoa-nuts in his hand, which, after having chanted a few
sentences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, and
hastened on board the Resolution, to perform the same friendly
ceremonies before Captain Cook. Having but light winds all that day,
we could not gain the harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the first
rank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board the
Discovery. His name was Ka, mea, mea: he was dressed in a very rich
feathered cloak, which he seemed to have brought for sale, but would
part with it for nothing except iron daggers. These the chiefs, some
time before our departure, had preferred to every other article; for,
having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools, they
began to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kameamea procured
nine daggers for his cloak; and, being pleased with his reception, he
and his attendants slept on board that night.
'In the morning of the 11th of February, the ships anchored again in
Keragegooah Bay, and preparation was immediately made for landing the
Resolution's foremast. We were visited but by few of the Indians,
because there were but few in the bay. On our departure, those
belonging to other parts had repaired to their several habitations,
and were again to collect from various quarters, before we could
expect to be surrounded by such multitudes as we had once seen in that
harbour. In the afternoon, I walked about a mile into the country, to
visit an Indian friend, who had, a few days before, come near twenty
miles, in a small canoe, to see me, while the ship lay becalmed. As
the canoe had not left us long before a gale of wind came on. I was
alarmed for the consequence: however, I had the pleasure to find, that
my friend had escaped unhurt, though not without some difficulties. I
take notice of this short excursion, merely because it afforded me an
opportunity of observing, that there appeared no change in the
disposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw nothing that could
induce me to think, that they were displeased with our return, or
jealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, that
abundant good nature, which had always characterized them, seemed
still to glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance.
'The next day, February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo, by
the chiefs: a solemnity, it seems, that was requisite to be observed,
before Kariopoo, the king, paid his first visit to Captain Cook, after
his return. He waited upon him the same day, on board the Resolution,
attended by a large train, some of which bore the presents designed
for Captain Cook; who received him in his usual friendly manner, and
gave him several articles in return. This amicable ceremony being
settled, the taboo was disolved; matters went on in the usual train;
and the next day, February the 13th we were visited by the natives in
great numbers: the Resolution's mast was landed, and the astronomical
observatories erected on their former situation. I landed, with
another gentleman, at the town of Kavaroah, where we found a great
number of canoes, just arrived from different parts of the island, and
the Indians busy in constructing temporary huts on the beach, for
their residence during the stay of the ships. On our return on board
the Discovery, we learned, that an Indian had been detected in
stealing the armourer's tongs from the forge, for which he received a
pretty severe flogging, and was sent out of the ship. Notwithstanding
the example made of this man, in the afternoon another had the
audacity to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, with
which he jumped overboard and swam for the shore. The master and a
midshipman were instantly dispatched after him, in the small cutter.
The Indian, seeing himself pursued, made for a canoe; his countrymen
took him on board, and paddled as swift as they could towards the
shore; we fired several muskets at them, but to no effect, for they
soon got out of the reach of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs, who
was at that time on board the Discovery, understanding what had
happened, immediately went ashore, promising to bring back the stolen
goods. Our boat was so far distanced, in chasing the canoe which had
taken the thief on board, that he had time to make his escape into the
country. Captain Cook, who was then ashore, endeavoured to intercept
his landing; but it seems, that he was led out of the way by some of
the natives, who had officiously intruded themselves as guides. As the
master was approaching near the landing place, he was met by some of
the Indians in a canoe: they had brought back the tongs and chisel,
together with another article, that we had not missed, which happened
to be the lid of the water cask. Having recovered these things, he was
returning on board, when he was met by the Resolution's pinnace, with
five men in her, who, without any orders, had come from the
observatories to his assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced he
thought himself strong enough to insist upon having the thief, or the
canoe which took him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view he
turned back; and having found the canoe on the beach, he was preparing
to launch it into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, and
insisted upon his not taking it away, as it was his property. The
officer not regarding him, the chief seized upon him, pinioned his
arms behind, and held him by the hair of his head; on which one of the
sailors struck him with an oar; Pareah instantly quitted the officer,
snatched the oar out of the man's hand, and snapped it in two across
his knee. At length the multitude began to attack our people with
stones. They made some resistance, but were soon overpowered, and
obliged to swim for safety to the small cutter, which lay farther out
than the pinnace. The officers, not being expert swimmers, retreated
to a small rock in the water, where they were closely pursued by the
Indians. One man darted a broken oar at the master; but his foot
slipping at the time, he missed him, which fortunately saved that
officer's life. At last, Pareah interfered, and put an end to their
violence. The gentlemen, knowing that his presence was their only
defence against the fury of the natives, entreated him to stay with
them, till they could get off in the boats; but that he refused, and
left them. The master went to seek assistance from the party at the
observatories; but the midshipman chose to remain in the pinnace. He
was very rudely treated by the mob, who plundered the boat of every
thing that was loose on board, and then began to knock her to pieces,
for the sake of the iron work; but Pareah fortunately returned in time
to prevent her destruction. He had met the other gentleman on his way
to the observatories, and suspecting his errand, had forced him to
return. He dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to
return on board; they represented, that all the oars had been taken
out of the boat on which he brought some of them back, and the
gentlemen were glad to get off without farther molestation. They had
not proceeded far, before they were overtaken by Pareah, in a canoe:
he delivered the midshipman's cap, which had been taken from him in
the scuffle, joined noses with them, in token of reconciliation, and
was anxious to know, if Captain Cook would kill him for what had
happened. They assured him of the contrary, and made signs of
friendship to him in return. He then left them, and paddled over to
the town of Kavaroah, and that was the last time we ever saw him.
Captain Cook returned on board soon after, much displeased with the
whole of this disagreeable business; and the same night sent a
lieutenant on board the Discovery to learn the particulars of it, as
it had originated in that ship.
'It was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry and confusion
attending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always been on terms
particularly friendly with us) came from the spot where it happened,
with a hog to sell on board the Discovery: it was of an extraordinary
large size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger of an unusual
length. He pointed to us, that it must be as long as his arm. Captain
Clerke not having one of that length, told him he would get, one made
for him by the morning; with which being satisfied, he left the hog,
and went ashore without making any stay with us. It will not be
altogether foreign to the subject, to mention a circumstance, that
happened to-day on board the Resolution. An Indian chief asked Captain
Cook, at his table, if he was a Tata Toa; which means a fighting man,
or a soldier. Being answered in the affirmative, he desired to see his
wounds. Captain Cook held out his right hand, which had a scar upon
it, dividing the thumb from the finger, the whole length of the
metacarpal bones. The Indian, being thus convinced of his being a Toa,
put the same question to another gentleman present, but be happened to
have none of those distinguishing marks; the chief then said, that he
himself was a Toa, and shewed the scars of some wounds he had received
in battle. Those who were on duty at the observatories, were
disturbed, during the night, with shrill and melancholy sounds,
issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be the
lamentations of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have
filled their minds with apprehension for the safety of their husbands;
but, be that as it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with
unusual awe and terror.
'To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians, in the night,
took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy
of one of her anchors: they had carried her off so quietly that we did
not miss her till the morning, Sunday, February the 14th. Captain
Clerke lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cook to acquaint him with
the accident: he returned on board, with orders for the launch and
small cutter, to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, and
lie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoes
that might attempt to get out; and, if he found it necessary, to fire
upon them. At the same time, the third lieutenant of the Resolution,
with the launch and small cutter, was sent on the same service, to the
opposite point of the bay; and the master was dispatched in the large
cutter, in pursuit of a double canoe, already under sail, making the
best of her way out of the harbour. He soon came up with her, and by
firing a few muskets, drove her on shore, and the Indians left her:
this happened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who bore the title of
Orono. He was on board himself, and it would have been fortunate, if
our people had secured him, for his person was held as sacred as that
of the king. During this time, Captain Cook was preparing to go ashore
himself, at the town of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person of
Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to another
part of the island, out of our reach. This appeared the most effectual
step that could be taken, on the present occasion, for the recovery of
the boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued, in similar
cases, at other islands in these seas, and it had always been attended
with the desired success: in fact, it would be difficult to point out
any other mode of proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attain
the object in view; we had reason to suppose, that the king and his
attendants had fled when the alarm was first given: in that case, it
was Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes which were
hauled upon the beach. He left the ship about seven o'clock, attended
by the lieutenant of marines, a serjeant, corporal, and seven private
men: the pinnace's crew were also armed, and under the command of Mr.
Roberts. As they rowed towards the shore, Captain Cook ordered the
launch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in order to
assist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy of notice; for it
clearly shews, that he was not unapprehensive of meeting with
resistance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary preparation
for the safety of himself and his people. I will venture to say, that,
from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not one,
beside himself, who judged that such precaution was absolutely
requisite: so little did his conduct, on the occasion, bear the marks
of rashness, or a precipitate self-confidence! He landed, with the
marines, at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah: the Indians
immediately flocked round, as usual, and shewed him the customary
marks of respect, by prostrating themselves before him.--There were no
signs of hostilities, or much alarm among them. Captain Cook, however,
did not seem willing to trust to appearances; but was particularly
attentive to the disposition of the marines, and to have them kept
clear of the crowd. He first inquired for the king's sons, two youths
who were much attached to him, and generally his companions on board.
Messengers being sent for them, they soon came to him, and informing
him, that their father was asleep, at a house not far from them, he
accompanied them thither, and took the marines along with them. As he
passed along, the natives every where prostrated themselves before
him, and seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had always
shown to his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom was
Kanynah, and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in order,
according to their usual custom; and, being ignorant of his intention
in coming on shore, frequently asked him, if he wanted any hogs, or
other provisions: he told them that he did not, and that his business
was to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he ordered some of
the Indians to go in, and inform Kariopoo, that he waited without to
speak with him. They came out two or three times, and instead of
returning any answer from the king, presented some pieces of red cloth
to him, which made Captain Cook suspect that he was not in the house;
he therefore desired the lieutenant of marines to go in. The
lieutenant found the old man just awaked from sleep and seemingly
alarmed at the message; but he came out without hesitation. Captain
Cook took him by the hand, and in a friendly manner asked him to go on
board, to which he very readily consented. Thus far matters appeared
in a favourable train, and the natives did not seem much alarmed or
apprehensive of hostility on our side; at which Captain Cook expressed
himself a little surprised, saying, that as the inhabitants of that
town appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, he should not molest
them, but that he must get the king on board. Kariopoo sat down before
his door, and was surrounded by a great crowd: Kanynah and his brother
were both very active in keeping order among them. In a little time,
however, the Indians were observed arming themselves with long spears,
clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, which they use as
armour. This hostile appearance increased, and became more alarming,
on the arrival of two men in a canoe from the opposite side of the
bay, with the news of a chief, called Kareemoo, having been killed by
one of the Discovery's boats. In their passage across, they had also
delivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that information,
the women, who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfasts, and
conversing familiarly with our people in the boats, retired, and a
confused murmur spread through the crowd. An old priest came to
Captain Cook, with a cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held out to him
as a present, at the same time singing very loud. He was often desired
to be silent, but in vain: he continued importunate and troublesome,
and there was no such thing as getting rid of him or his noise: it
seemed as if he meant to divert their attention from his countrymen,
who were growing more tumultuous, and arming themselves in every
quarter. Captain Cook, being at the same time surrounded by a great
crowd, thought his situation rather hazardous: he therefore ordered
the lieutenant of marines to march his small party to the waterside,
where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore: the Indians
readily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interrupt
them. The distance they had to go might be about fifty or sixty yards;
Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompanied
him very willingly: he was attended by his wife, two sons, and several
chiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savage
noise. Keowa, the youngest son, went directly into the pinnace,
expecting his father to follow: but just as he arrived at the
waterside, his wife threw her arms about his neck, and, with the
assistance of two chiefs, forced him to sit down by the side of a
double canoe. Captain Cook expostulated with them, but to no purpose:
they would not suffer the king to proceed, telling him, that he would
be put to death if he went on board the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct
seemed entirely resigned to the will of others, hung down his head,
and appeared much distressed.
'While the king was in this situation, a chief, well known to us, of
the name of Coho, was observed lurking near, with an iron dagger,
partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly with the intention of
stabbing Captain Cook, or the lieutenant of marines. The latter
proposed to fire at him, but Captain Cook would not permit it. Coho
closing upon them, obliged the officer to strike him with his piece,
which made him retire. Another Indian laid hold of the sergeant's
musket, and endeavoured to wrench it from him, but was prevented by
the lieutenant's making a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing the tumult
increase, and the Indians growing more daring and resolute, observed,
that if he were to take the king off by force, he could not do it
without sacrificing the lives of many of his people. He then paused a
little, and was on the point of giving his orders to re-embark, when a
man threw a stone at him; which he returned with a discharge of small
shot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded). The man,
having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt: he
brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, who
being still unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing with
ball, knocked him down with his musket. He expostulated strongly with
the most forward of the crowd, upon their turbulent behaviour. He had
given up all thoughts of getting the king on board, as it appeared
impracticable; and his care was then only to act on the defensive, and
to secure a safe embarkation for his small party, which was closely
pressed by a body of several thousand people. Keowa, the king's son,
who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on hearing the first firing,
was, at his own entreaty, put on shore again; for even at that time
Mr. Roberts, who commanded her, did not apprehend that Captain Cook's
person was in any danger: otherwise he would have detained the prince,
which, no doubt, would have been a great check on the Indians. One man
was observed, behind a double canoe, in the action of darting his
spear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him in his own
defence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward in
the tumult: the serjeant observing that he had missed the man he aimed
at, received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. By
this time, the impetuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed; they
fell back in a body, and seemed staggered; but being pushed on by
those behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley of
stones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it
with a general discharge of musketry, which was instantly followed by
a fire from the boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express his
astonishment: he waved his hand to the boats, called to them to cease
firing, and to come nearer in to receive the marines. Mr. Roberts
immediately brought the pinnace as close to the shore as he could,
without grounding, notwithstanding the showers of stones that fell
among the people: but ---- the lieutenant, who commanded in the
launch, instead of pulling in to the assistance of Captain Cook,
withdrew his boat farther off, at the moment that every thing seems to
have depended upon the timely exertions of those in the boats. By his
own account, he mistook the signal, but be that as it may, this
circumstance appears to me, to have decided the fatal turn of the
affair, and to have removed every chance which remained with Captain
Cook, of escaping with his life. The business of saving the marines
out of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon the
pinnace; which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were, in
a great measure, prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving what
assistance they otherwise might have done, to Captain Cook; so that he
seems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted the
assistance of both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For,
notwithstanding that they kept up a fire on the crowd, from the
situation to which they removed in that boat, the fatal confusion
which ensued on her being withdrawn, to say the least of it, must have
prevented the full effect that the prompt co-operation of the two
boats, according to Captain Cook's orders, must have had, towards the
preservation of himself and his people.[15] At that time, it was to
the boats alone that Captain Cook had to look for his safety; for,
when the marines had fired, the Indians rushed among them, and forced
them into the water, where four of them were killed: their lieutenant
was wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the pinnace.
Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock: as observed
making for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the back of his
head, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his musket under the
other arm. An Indian was seen following him, but with caution and
timidity; for he stopped once or twice, as if undetermined to proceed.
At last he advanced upon him unawares, and with a large club, or
common stake, gave him a blow on the back of the head, and then
precipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have stunned Captain
Cook: he staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand and one knee,
and dropped his musket. As he was rising, and before he could recover
his feet, another Indian stabbed him in the back of the neck with an
iron dagger. He then fell into a bit of water about knee deep, where
others crowded upon him, and endeavoured to keep him under: but
struggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and casting
his look towards the pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. Though the
boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet from the
crowded and confused state of the crew, it seems, it was not in their
power to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in deeper
water: he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and being
almost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, and was
endeavouring to support himself by it, when a savage gave him a blow
with a club, and he was seen alive no more. They hauled him up
lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a savage pleasure in
using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out of
each other's hands, to have the horrid satisfaction of piercing the
fallen victim of their barbarous rage.
[Footnote 15: I have been informed on the best authority, that in
the opinion of Captain Philips, who commanded the marines, and
whose judgment must be of the greatest weight, it is extremely
doubtful whether any thing could successfully have been done to
preserve the life of Captain Cook, even if no mistake had been
committed on the part of the launch.]
'I need make no reflection on the great loss we suffered on this
occasion, or attempt to describe what we felt. It is enough, to say,
that no man was ever more beloved or admired: and it is truly painful
to reflect that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want of
being properly supported; a fate, singularly to be lamented, as having
fallen to his lot, who had ever been conspicuous for his care of those
under his command, and who seemed, to the last, to pay as much
attention to their preservation, as to that of his own life.
'If any thing could have added to the shame and indignation
universally felt on this occasion, it was to find, that his remains
had been deserted, and left exposed on the beach, although they might
have been brought off. It appears, from the information of four or
five midshipmen, who arrived on the spot at the conclusion of the
fatal business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted by
the Indians, who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, and
dispersed through the town: so that there seemed no great obstacle to
prevent the recovery of Captain Cook's body; but the lieutenant
returned on board without making the attempt. It is unnecessary to
dwell longer on this painful subject, and to relate the complaints and
censures that fell on the conduct of the lieutenant. It will be
sufficient to observe that they were so loud as to oblige Captain
Clerke publicly to notice them, and to take the depositions of his
accusers down in writing. The captains bad state of health and
approaching dissolution, it is supposed, induced him to destroy these
papers a short time before his death.
'It is a painful task to be obliged to notice circumstances which seem
to reflect upon the character of any man. A strict regard to truth,
however, compelled me to the insertion of these facts, which I have
offered merely as facts, without presuming to connect with them any
comment of my own: esteeming it the part of a faithful historian, "to
extenuate nothing, nor set down aught in malice."
'The fatal accident happened at eight o'clock in the morning, about an
hour after Captain Cook landed. It did not seem that the king, or his
sons, were witnesses to it: but it is supposed, that they withdrew in
the midst of the tumult. The principal actors were the other chiefs,
many of them the king's relations and attendants; the man who stabbed
him with the dagger was called Nooah. I happened to be the only one
who recollected his person, from having on a former occasion mentioned
his name in the journal I kept. I was induced to take particular
notice of him, more from his personal appearance than any other
consideration, though he was of high rank, and a near relation of the
king: he was stout and tall, with a fierce look and demeanour, and one
who united in his figure the two qualities of strength and agility, in
a greater degree than ever I remembered to have seen before in any
other man. His age might be about thirty, and by the white scurf on
his skin, and his sore eyes, he appeared to be a hard drinker of kava.
He was a constant companion of the king, with whom I first saw him,
when he paid a visit to Captain Clerke. The chief who first struck
Captain Cook with the club, was called Karimano, craha, but I did not
know him by his name. These circumstances I learned of honest
Kaireekea, the priest; who added, that they were both held in great
esteem on account of that action: neither of them came near us
afterward. When the boats left the shore, the Indians carried away the
dead body of Captain Cook and those of the marines, to the rising
ground, at the back of the town, where we could plainly see them with
our glasses from the ships.
'This most melancholy accident appears to have been altogether
unexpected and unforeseen, as well on the part of the natives as
ourselves. I never saw sufficient reason to induce me to believe, that
there was any thing of design, or a preconcerted plan on their side,
or that they purposely sought to quarrel with us: thieving, which gave
rise to the whole, they were equally guilty of in our first and second
visits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened
between us: their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but
sometimes slightly punished: the boat, which they at last ventured to
take away, was an object of no small magnitude to people in our
situation, who could not possibly replace her, and therefore not
slightly to be given up. We had no other chance of recovering her, but
by getting the person of the king into our possession: on our
attempting to do that, the natives became alarmed for his safety, and
naturally opposed those whom they deemed his enemies. In the sudden
conflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable misfortune of losing our
excellent commander, in the manner already related. It is in this
light the affair has always appeared to me, as entirely accidental,
and not in the least, owing to any previous offence received, or
jealousy of our second visit entertained by the natives.
'Pareah seems to have been the principal instrument in bringing about
this fatal disaster. We learned afterward, that it was he who had
employed some people to steal the boat: the king did not seem to be
privy to it, or even apprized of what had happened, till Captain Cook
landed.
'It was generally remarked, that, at first, the Indians shewed great
resolution in facing our fire-arms; but it was entirely owing to
ignorance of their effect. They thought that their thick mats would
defend them from a ball as well as from a stone; but being soon
convinced of their error, yet still at a loss to account how such
execution was done among them, they had recourse to a stratagem,
which, though it answered no other purpose, served to shew their
ingenuity and quickness of invention. Observing the flashes of the
muskets, they naturally concluded, that water would counteract their
effect, and therefore, very sagaciously dipped their mats, or armour,
in the sea, just as they came on to face our people: but finding this
last resource to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beach
entirely clear. It was an object they never neglected, even at the
greatest hazard, to carry off their slain; a custom, probably owing to
the barbarity with which they treat the dead body of an enemy, and the
trophies they make of his bones.'
In consequence of this barbarity of disposition, the whole remains of
Captain Cook could not be recovered. For, though every exertion was
made for that purpose; though negotiations and threatenings were
alternately employed, little more than the principal part of his bones
(and that with great difficulty) could be procured. By the possession
of them, our navigators were enabled to perform the last offices to
their eminent and unfortunate commander. The bones, having been put
into a coffin, and the service being read over them, were committed to
the deep, on the 21st, with the usual military honours. What were the
feelings of the companies of both the ships, on this occasion, must be
left to the world to conceive; for those who were present, know, that
it is not in the power of any pen to express them.
A promotion of officers followed the decease of Captain Cook. Captain
Clerke having succeeded of course to the command of the expedition,
removed on board the Resolution. By him Mr. Gore was appointed captain
of the Discovery, and the rest of the lieutenants obtained an addition
of rank, in their proper order. Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who had been
in the last as well as the present voyage, was promoted to the vacant
lieutenancy.
Not long after Captain Cook's death, an event occurred in Europe,
which had a particular relation to the voyage of our navigator, and
which was so honourable to himself, and to the great nation from whom
it proceeded, that it is no small pleasure to me to be able to lay the
transaction somewhat at large before my readers. What I refer to is,
the letter which was issued, on the 19th of March, 1779, by Mr.
Sartine secretary of the marine department at Paris, and sent to all
the commanders of French ships. The rescript was as follows: 'Captain
Cook, who sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, on board the Resolution,
in company with the Discovery, Captain Clerke, in order to make some
discoveries on the coasts, islands, and seas of Japan and California,
being on the point of returning to Europe; and such discoveries being
of general utility to all nations, it is the king's pleasure, that
Captain Cook shall be treated as a commander of a neutral and allied
power, and, that all captains of armed vessels, &c. who may meet that
famous navigator, shall make him acquainted with the king's orders on
this behalf, but, at the same time, let him know, that on his part he
must refrain from hostilities.' By the Marquis of Condorcet we are
informed, that this measure originated in the liberal and enlightened
mind of that excellent citizen and statesman, M. Turgot. 'When war,'
says the marquis, 'was declared between France and England, M. Turgot
saw how honourable it would be to the French nation, that the vessel
of Captain Cook should be treated with respect at sea. He composed a
memorial, in which he proved, that honour, reason, and even interest,
dictated this act of respect for humanity; and it was in consequence
of this memorial, the author of which was unknown during his life,
that an order was given not to treat as an enemy the common benefactor
of every European nation.'
Whilst great praise is due to M. Turgot, for having suggested the
adoption of a measure which hath contributed so much to the reputation
of the French government, it must not be forgotten, that the first
thought of such a plan of conduct was probably owing to Dr. Benjamin
Franklin. Thus much, at least, is certain, that this eminent
philosopher, when ambassador at Paris from the United States of
America, preceded the court of France in issuing a similar
requisition; a copy Of which cannot fail of being acceptable to the
reader.
'To all Captains and Commanders of armed Ships acting by Commission
from the Congress of the United States of America, now in war with
Great Britain.
'Gentlemen,
'A ship having been fitted out from England before the commencement of
this war, to make discoveries of new countries in unknown seas, under
the conduct of that most celebrated navigator and discoverer, Captain
Cook; an undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase of
geographical knowledge facilitates the communication between distant
nations, in the exchange of useful products and manufactures, and the
extension of arts, whereby the common enjoyments of human life are
multiplied and augmented, and science of other kinds increased, to the
benefit of mankind in general--This is therefore most earnestly to
recommend to every one of you, that in case the said ship, which is
now expected to be soon in the European seas on her return, should
happen to fall into your hands, you would not consider her as an
enemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects contained in
her, nor obstruct her immediate return to England, by detaining her,
or sending her into any other part of Europe, or to America; but that
you would treat the said Captain Cook and his people with all civility
and kindness, affording them, as common friends to mankind, all the
assistance in your power, which they may happen to stand in need of.
In so doing you will not only gratify the generosity of your own
dispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the approbation
of the Congress, and your other American owners.
'I have the honour to be, Gentlemen,
'Your most obedient, humble servant,
B. FRANKLIN,
'Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United States, at
the Court of France.
At Passy, near Paris, the 10th day of March, 1779.'
It is observable that, as Dr. Franklin acted on his own authority, he
could only _earnestly recommend_ to the commanders of American
armed vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy; and it is
somewhat remarkable, that he mentions no more than one ship; Captain
Clerke not being noticed in the requisition. In the confidence which
the doctor expressed, with respect to the approbation of Congress, he
happened to be mistaken. As the members of that assembly, at least
with regard to the greater part of them, were, not possessed of minds
equally enlightened with that of their ambassador, he was not
supported by his masters in this noble act of humanity, of love to
science, and of liberal policy. The orders he had given were instantly
reversed; and it was directed by Congress, that especial care should
be taken to seize Captain Cook, if an opportunity of doing it
occurred. All this preceeded from a false notion, that it would be
injurious to the United States for the English to obtain a knowledge
of the opposite coast of America.
The conduct of the court of Spain was regulated by similar principles
of jealousy. It was apprehended by that court, that there was reason
to be cautious of granting, too easily, an indulgence to Captain Cook;
since it was not certain what mischiefs might ensue to the Spaniards
from a northern passage to their American dominions. M. de Belluga, a
Spanish gentleman and officer, of a liberal and philosophical turn of
mind, and who was a member of the Royal Society of London, endeavoured
to prevail upon the Count of Florida Blanca, and M. d'Almodaver, to
grant an order of protection to the Resolution and Discovery; and he
flattered himself, that the ministers of the King of Spain would be
prevailed upon to prefer the cause of science to the partial views of
interest: but the Spanish government was not capable of rising to so
enlarged and magnanimous a plan of policy. To the French nation alone,
therefore, was reserved the honour of setting an example of wisdom and
humanity, which, I trust, will not hereafter be so uncommon to the
history of mankind.
The progress of the voyage, after the decease of Captain Cook, doth
not fall within the design of the present narrative.[16]
[Footnote 16: The particulars of the voyage, after the death of
Captain Cook, of which it did not fall under Dr. Kippis's plan to
give a narrative, will be found in the Appendix.] _
Read next: CHAPTER VII. Character of Captain Cook.--Effects of his Voyages.--Testimonies of Applause.--Commemorations of his Services.--Regard paid to his Family
Read previous: CHAPTER V. Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his second and third Voyage
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